On Apr 23, 7:22 am, "Garage_Woodworks" .@. wrote:


You don't even need to settle for the 'error from wood movement'. Just
check the dam thing before you use it and fix it.

LMAO.... pretty hot issue, eh? I like it when someone replies to
their own posting.

You missed my point. You should always get your jigs, measuring
devices, etc. as close to perfect as you can.

We were talking about a WOODEN jig. In my experience, I have
never seen a usable wooden jig hold to perfect tolerance under all
conditions. Close, but not perfect. Obviously you feel differently.
To me, if I am to put a lot of time and effort into making something,
it needs to a design that can perform to the standards I want. Wood
can be a satisfactory fabrication medium for certain things, but not
repeatability of tolerances within a couple of thousands over a period
of use.

But since DCH didn't post what size board he was using, how do we know
what the table saw is the best tool for the job? What if he is
cutting 4" or 6" wide material? Should he be using a table saw and a
homemade sled?

Certainly if that is the case, I would put any of my three miter saws
against his table saw and shop built jig. And for compound cuts, a
table saw is not even a consideration if I can get it under my miter
saw.

The milled aluminum and steel bed and fence calibrated with my
machinest's square are much more comfortable for me to rely on than
plywood, mdf, white glue,. hardwood, etc.

Robert