Paper towel, the cheapest sort, works great for application as long as you
have properly sanded work. I use one of those extra fine sanding sponges
with mineral spirits as a lube when sanding between coats. Half a sponge,
kept in a container with some spirits to wash it lasts a _very_ long time.

The gloss is more transparent, of course, and you _can_ use steel wool of
you like. I just hate the stuff, so I use pumice on an oiled rag.

"Sawblade" wrote in message
.. .
As far as I can tell, wipe on poly is just regular polyurethane thinned
with
mineral spirits 50/50. It produces a very thin coat, but can be recoated
in
about 4-6 hours depending on temp and humidity. I use 0000 steel wool
very
lightly between coats and it gets rid of dust nibs, etc and leaves a
really
smooth finish. I have used everything from paper towels to socks to apply
it, but old tee shirts seem to work best for me. I have had the best luck
with the gloss instead of the satin, and just rub with steel wool and
paste
wax to cut the shine a little. Let it cure for a week or more before you
rub out the gloss with the steel wool and wax.

--
Sawblade
(use SWBell to fix address)


"BeerBoy" wrote in message
. ca...
Hi,
I have some MinWax Wipe-On Poly that I want to try on a project and am
looking for some application tips. Do most of you just go by the
instructions on the can or are there better methods? I got some great
advice regarding Watco Danish Oil application and thought some of you may
have some good advice regarding this poly. Thanks.

--
BeerBoy