Manjo wrote:
On Apr 18, 7:22 pm, wrote:


Yes. I sprayed Berrymans B-12 carb cleaner into all carb circuits I
could find including removing a small idle circuit screw and spraying
fluid in there too. I looked for and saw spray fluid drip out the
other end of the ciruits. I then blew compressed air into each
circuit and felt fluid and then air come out the other end of the
circuit.

For what it's worth, there are only four (4) circuits I could locate:
main pick-up tube circuit from the gas tank into the main carnb
venturi; a shorter pick-up carb arm at the bottom with a jet fed from
a small "cup" at the top of the gas tank; the idle circuit adjustment
screw hole at the side; and what looks like an EPA crankcase gases
recirculation port from a cover over the valves feeding back into and
just above the choke butterfly valve. Here's a link I created to
the Parts List pdf. The carb parts are shown and listed on Page 4.
http://home.comcast.net/~manjo1111/B...LIST%20old.pdf

Manjo


Your description above indicates you do not understand how this
carburetor functions. The long pick up to the bottom of the tank is the
FUEL PUMP PICK UP. It does not feed the venturi, it feeds the diaphragm
fuel pump in the side of the carb. The fuel pump feeds the reservoir in
the top of the tank, overflowing back into the tank when the "bowl" is
full. The short tube in the bowl is the same as the main and idle feed
in any combined circuit bowl type carb. The main feed goes through a
fixed metering jet or a screw on the top. The idle metering is through a
screw on the side. Air into the screen on the bottom of the short tube
should come out in the idle screw AND the main venturi. Air blown into
the long tube should come out the side of the diaphragm mounting surface
or the bottom of the carburetor, depending on whether the diaphragm is
installed or not. However, compressed air into the long tube while the
diaphragm is installed is liable to rupture the diaphragm.

The tube for the crankcase gases, while there to reduce pollution, has
been there since long before the EPA was even created. That carburetor
has been around in one form or another since the 1960's.

Have you checked to see if the plug is wet when it dies? Can you keep it
running by spraying fuel (use WD-40, not starting fluid) into the carb
intake? Have you tried running the engine with a spark tester in the
plug wire? With the tank half full, does the inner reservoir fill up
after a few pulls of the rope? Are the little "flaps" cut in the
diaphragm curling up or laying flat against the side face of the carb?
Did you use a new diaphragm, or just reinstall the old one?

I'm all for people who get the manuals, and have the skills doing their
own work. But this knowledge is what you either pay for the manuals or
hire a properly trained technician to provide.