In article ,
Gunner Asch wrote:

On Sun, 06 Apr 2008 14:42:55 -0400, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

In article ,
Gunner Asch wrote:

On Sat, 05 Apr 2008 16:39:16 -0400, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:


I was initially taught in junior high metal class to part at a slow
speed but later in high school machining class where the instructor was
a machinist, he said to run at the recommended speed for the material
if
the machine could cope as parting was a cutting operation like any
other. Still works for me. The junior high lathe was a little
Southbend
so needed running slow.

It's true that parting off is still a cutting operation, but one
difference is that a parting tool is cutting over a broad area, rather
than close to a point or small radius.

The other issue was that because the toolpost rotated, one whole side
edge of the T-blade was attempting to cut, not just the tip.


Thats very common with quick change tool holders. leverage with the
tool hanging out to the left/right of cross slide centerline.

Aloris claimed it was not a problem, but I certainly had the problem
with the Dickson toolpost. The Aloris does have a blind ~3/8" diameter
hole in the bottom that appears to be intended to accept an
anti-rotation pin.

I have KDK on all my machines, including the Hardinge HLV-H..and it
will twist if I screw up.

KDK toolposts also have polished bottoms, I assume.

How does KDK compare to Aloris?


Tighten up the tool post, or put a bit of yellow legal-pad paper
under it.

OK. It was pretty tight. Is yellow legal paper special?

It provides a nice friction surface between the block and the
compound. Even when oily.

Ahh. That was my question.

I use a water-oil emulsion for cutting, and I worried that the water
would turn the paper into mush. Maybe the paper needs to be soaked in
way oil first.

I was also thinking of using electrical "fishpaper" (vulcanized fiber)
in place of the legal paper. Fishpaper is *very* strong. Fish are not
involved; I have no idea where the name came from.

I've also been thinking that the paper might benefit from being sealed
with shellac. Application would be by dipping in shellac diluted with
alcohol.


And learn to sharpen/setup/line up your cutting tools better. A cut
shouldn't take all that much pressure to accomplish unless they are
dull, or you are feeding way too fast

It was not quite razor sharp, but it wasn't dull either. But it won't
hurt to sharpen it.

I suspect the real problem (aside from the toolpost rotating) was that I
was simply pushing too hard, as I learn the feel of cutting off. This
is the part that must be learned by using the lathe, that cannot be
learned by reading books.

Joe Gwinn

Good thinking and sorta echoed my own thoughts. It takes time to get
a feel, or read the recommended speeds and feeds and set your travel
accordingly.

I tend to make blue chips..push harder than most might, but I know my
machines, my tooling.

Well, I've been managing pale yellow to brown chips mostly, and did
manage blue while doing roughing-cut experiments. This while using
brushed-on black sulfur oil. But since I started using the sprayed
water-oil emulsion, things have been boringly cool, and all chips are
shiney. But the emulsion is baby blue.

Joe Gwinn