Ken wrote:
If you do recoat , use Gereral finish Milk Paint, it is a High grade
Furniture finish, water base, scuff sand with lite green Scotch
Brite
pad wipe with Naptha dry recoat, One coat should do it.
Woodcraft.

ps It's not real Milk Paint.

Just for the record I can get a gallon of PolyStar or tinted Magnamax
for about the price that Woodcraft charges for a quart of General
Finish Milk Paint, and General Finish Milk Paint is another latex--it
may be _good_ latex, but trying to fix a problem with a good grade of
latex by overcoating it with a different brand of the same stuff seems
to me to be counterproductive.

"schooner" wrote in message
news:YJnIj.20191$_v3.1677@edtnps90...
I painted a birch plywood desk work surface with latex CIL SMART3
WASH & WEAR Kitchen & Bath paint
http://www.cil.ca/en/brands_smart.html (at the suggestion of the HD
paint guy) as he said it would give a durable washable finish. The
surface was first lightly sanded and primed with Kilz2 and then two
coats of black latex.

The issue I am having is that the paint surface seems to remain
tacky/sticky when items are placed on it then moved later. The
surface is dry to the touch but items do stick after a few minutes.
From reading I understand this may be an issue with latex paints
and
known as blocking. It has only been 3 days since the final coat was
put on so perhaps it is just an issue of waiting longer for drying?

Is there anything I can do to get rid of or reduce this beyond
repainting? Will it go away after a week or so or will it remain
for
the live of the paint? What about waxing or using talcum? Since
the
is a semigloss black finish I wonder if talcum would cause a mess.
For wax what would be the bets to use?

Any other suggestions?

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)