On Thu, 27 Mar 2008 20:29:57 -0700 (PDT), Bob AZ
wrote:

? Be sure to check the spec sheets for the temp limits before trying
this, but some pumps can take hot water input from a water heater, and
when the pump adds some more energy the output is darned near steam.

? ? ? -- Bruce --


Bruce

Thanks for the nice additional information. The reason I thought it
was a hydraulic/oil pump is because the whole thing is an oily mess.

Today I looked things over some more and have to agree it is not for
oil but as you indicate for high pressure washing among other things.
I have not found the pump on the arimitsu site and there does not seem
to be a britt site. The whole thing is mounted in/on a cart that looks
like a small wheelbarrow. A swivel wheel in front and two larger
wheels in the rear. Also has some sort of a pressure regulator and a
pressure switch in the motor control circuit. I took all the wiring
out and will clean everything up before putting it back together. Most
of the wiring has rotted wiring.

Tomorrow I hope to take it to a car wash where I can hose it down and
clean it up. I am almost afraid to touch it. I did remove the motor,
1? HP Lesson Motor. If it all works I will probably sell it on Ebay.
If I don't get enough money for it I will keep it for the motor. I can
use a bigger motor for my mill.

Pressure switches on a "stationary" washer like that can be a
problem - I had a Car Wash that had a unit like that at the front of
the wash line to do tires, and it had a manual control - when they had
no cars, the workers would shut it off, IF they didn't see cars in
line at the vacuums that would be there in a few minutes.

The car wash owner didn't care about cars that would be there in 3
minutes, he wanted it to be on a timer or a pressure switch and shut
off every possible second it wasn't in use to "Save Electricity".
(Cheap *******s in that industry won't pay the help minimum wage, but
they want to shave a few pennies off the power bill...)

I refused to install a pressure switch unless it could be done right
- with a pressure switch with a large dead-band AND a high pressure
bladder accumulator to make up for leaky hoses - take fifteen minutes
or more for small leaks to bleed back down to the "Start" setting, AND
a dwell timer so the guns had to be closed (max pressure, on the
relief valve) for a certain length of time to trip shutdown, AND a
minimum run time timer so they still couldn't short-cycle the motor
once it tripped on. Belt, Suspenders and a rope.

Because if I didn't do it the right way they'd be torching and
buying new 5 HP motors monthly, and moaning at me about the costs.

Whenever you start a high-start-torque motor on a compressor or pump
it should run for 3 minutes bare minimum before shutdown, 10 minutes
is a lot better. Keeps them cool which makes them happy, and a happy
electric motor is a long life electric motor.

And you NEVER allow multiple short cycles in a row because of bad
controls design. You send locked-rotor current through the motor for
a second (then it ramps down) and that generates a big slug of heat
deep down inside the motor windings on every start - it takes a while
running for them to cool back down to normal.

Unless you put a continuous cooling fan on the motor (and with a
TEFC 'washdown duty' motor you can't because there's no internal
airflow when it is not running) constant short cycling will spot-burn
the windings and kill any motor fast.

-- Bruce --