On Mar 24, 3:39 pm, Joey wrote:
Hi guys, I'm not a member of this group and this is my first post.
Forgive me if I've posted incorrectly.

Welcome. Come by anytime. Fresh blood (meat?) is always
welcome. ;^)

A couple of thoughts come to mind. If you are going to paint the
cabinet with latex, you will probably have a problem (as in most
likely) getting latex (water based) paint to stick to the epoxied
areas for any length of time. It might work just fine, but you
wouldn't want to find out after you get your machine reassembled,
right?

If you are just filling tiny little cracks that are only 1/2 mm or so
deep, the problem I think you will have is getting the filler material
to stay in the crack. That tiny little crack may not be large enough
for most fillers to remain sound, and if they don't adhere really
well, the sanding and finish process will pop those tiny little
threads of filler out.

For me, if the surface was to be painted, I would make the cracks a
little larger with an awl, a marking knife, or something of that
nature so they would hole more filler. I would make up a batch
Durham's Rock Hard that can be easily worked with a trowel and skim a
coat over all the cracks, overfilling slightly.

Sand this stuff carefully when dry, and you will never see your
cracks. Paint adheres very well to it, and since the product really
doesn't shrink, you won't see any repair lines if you sand correctly.

We use a lot of this stuff, and if you put it on a clean surface it is
great. It is good for a lot of other things as well, and dries hard
enough you can shape it with a sander, file, or even cut it with a
knife if you want to carve it.

Best of all, it is cheap, very easy to use, and does what it is
supposed to do. I have never found a finish, water or solvent based
that didn't stick to this stuff when cured.

Hope this helps.

Others will be along after this post.

Robert