In message
,
Fred Holder writes

Hello John,

What many people do to eliminate or reduce this problem is the use two
bevels. One is a short or narrow bevel at the cutting edge and then a
secondary bevel which grinds away a part of the heal of the bevel.
With this method, there is a very short bevel riding on the wood and
the problems you describe disappear. The actual cutting bevel is
generally about 1/16 inch to 1/8 inch wide. The rest of the normal
bevel is ground away at a different angle to get it out of the way
when turning.

My recommendation would be to give it a try and see how you like it.
I've used tools with no more that a 1/16 inch wide bevel with
excellent success. Several well known turners do this.

Fred Holder

Fred,

After reading yours, and the other posts I think you have hit the nail
on the head, with the use of 2 bevels. The cutting bevel means that the
tool cutting edge has body behind it giving strength, and the second
bevel, which could be called a clearance bevel as it gives clearance
from the surface giving greater manoeuvrability. This to me makes most
sense, so I will be giving it a try shortly.

It also makes sense from a grinding point of view. Using a scraper for
example, if you first grind the clearance bevel, and then the effort to
grind the cutting bevel would be minimal, as there is less meat to take
away. Obviously as the cutting bevel is re-ground over time the
clearance bevel would diminish.

Another issue I have seen in cheaper tools is that the bevel is often at
45 degrees, which provides an inherent weakness at the tip. But if a
cutting bevel is now ground at the correct angle, you have a default
clearance bevel for free. Though I suspect this would need looking into
a little further as the heat dissipation of the tool would likely be
reduced due to less metal in the clearance bevel.
--
John