When I use the shear cut (handle down, and the swept back edge at a
high angle with no bevel rub) I never get the shiny surface that I get
when I rub the bevel. I always figured that this was because riding
the bevel would actually burnish the wood. It doesn't seem to make any
difference in how smooth the final cut is, or if I am using the
scraper or a gouge for the final shear cut, the surface still feels
smooth.
robo hippy

On Mar 19, 7:23*am, spaco wrote:
Thanks for making this original post and thanks to those who replied.
This "riding the bevel" has been a total mystery to me.
* *Even when I see videos of woodturning, the craftsman often doesn't
really seem to be "riding the bevel". *They seem to be using the gouge
as a scraper. OTOH, I see some pretty shiny looking cuts just behind the
tool. * Aren't they from the bevel rubbing on the work?

Pete Stanaitis
---------------------

John wrote:
A thought came to mind today whilst sharpening some gouges, what is the
optimum grind.

Let me explain

If I grind a tool on a 3 inch wheel I get a bevel with a radius of 1.5
inches,
but
If I grind a tool on a 12inch wheel I get a bevel with radius of 6 inches.

I would guess that the ideal radius of the grind would be larger than
the radius of the piece of work? My understanding is that if the radius
of the bevel were less then you would ride the back of the bevel until
the front touches, nothing in between, with an increased chance of dig
in on contact. If it is larger radius you can pivot on any point of the
bevel till the front touches, better control *and less chance of dig in
on contact..

So assuming I have this correct, what is the best bevel radius to use
when you start getting to a really large diameter turning say 24inch
dia? Would no bevel be the best option ?