wrote:

The existing CU is a Tenby, I've decided that even though 17th is a
while off I'll be 17th compliant (why not, it makes sense). So I see
three obvious options :-

1. RCBO the current CU - this is probably the easiest option, no doubt
the most expensive.

probably...

2. Buy a 16th split and swap one RCD for a switch and then RCBO that
half. Currently 16th splits are cheap as chips (no doubt wholesalers
are getting cold feet about unsold stock and impending 17th). Also
this is an expensive option as well.

Not much better than 1

3. Swap the CU for a 17th part CU.

or make up an equivalent using MK like Andy described or by having more
than one CU fed from split tails after your isolater.

1 is a problem because its a temby. I know its compatible with Legrand
and I suspect Contactum - but the RCBO are a teary 48+VAT each. Thats

Not tried Temby, so can' comment directly. Contactum / Hager / MK are
all generally interchangeable though.

3 my local wholesaler has a 17th contactum CU which seems like a good
deal (http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products...80slash80.html)
and I know they deliver next day as I have used them before. This
seems like an attractive offer.

I have used lots of contactum CUs in the past, and generally find them
quite nice to work on. Plenty of space.

Any advice people?

Also its worth pointing out that I have not changed a CU before
(fitted one out yes, so 1 is also an easy option) so any advice people
can offer would be gratefully received. I do have a lot paperwork and
a few instructional DVDs so I am not that concerned. Also, most
importantly, when I had the meter and inlet moved a few years ago I
had an 100A isolator fitted between the CU and tails so for me the job
is much, much safer then for most people.

Since you have a switch, changing the CU is hardly any harder than
fitting one out.

If fitting one from scratch make sure to check the default wiring in
them first - I had one out of the box that would have shorted the supply
if it had been connected up as supplied!

Still - I'm not proud and I gracefully accept advice from people with
experience. My main question is making sure all fittings and
attachments are good and tight and proper - I would guess there are
some tricks of the trade to be learned there. I don't want to bother
my friendly competent too much (I am relying on him to test all the
works once finished, and that will be one time consuming job).

Using a big enough screwdriver seems to be the main thing.

The last question is about isolation in kitchens. I have been reading
up in my copy of 16th and it clearly states that isolation is only
needed for fixed kitchen units and a switched socket counts as an
isolator for non-fixed units. My friendly competent says that he would
mark down any installation that did not have an isolator for all units
regardless of if they were on sockets or not. I'm talking freezers and
fridges that are not fixed but slide under the work surface. What is
the viewpoint on that? how should 16th part be read on this issue? If

My personal preference is to have above counter isolation switches for
anything that obscures it's socket. This is not actually required by the
regs, but in practice seems to make sense. I have seen a tumble drier
burst into flames before; and I want not want to have to pull it out of
a recess under a worktop to be able to reach its plug to isolate it!

A common workaround is to place the supply socket at the back of an
adjacent cupboard such that the plug can be withdrawn without moving the
appliance. Its arguable whether this still counts as "readily accessible"

he is correct then my only real option is the spur the two under work
surface sockets up over the work surface and then back down and fit a
FCB at he top as the isolation. A right royal pain that would be to
remove some tiles and refit - but if I must. Also it would be more or
less impossible to meet the recommended 2m distance, I could manage

The only reference I have seen to 2m I have seen is as a maximum between
a cooker and its isolator.



--
Cheers,

John.

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