I'll get the obvious out of the way so as to avoid silly posts and
questions.
Yes I am rewiring my house.
Yes I am aware of Part P.
Yes I have a building notice in force allowing me to do this.
Yes I have a friendly competent to help test and advise when needed.
Yes I have spent months preparing and researching.
Yes my house is currently a non-complaint mess that I am trying to
fix.
No, I threw out all my non harmonized cable and have no intention of
using any.
Yes I will sleeve up any remaining non-harmonized and test it
thoroughly before using (I have some cable buried behind stuff I do
not want to move at this time).
Yes I have the correct test equipment.
And, finally, yes all the work will be tested before the LABC will
sign it off.
(and yes, I realize the design/installation sections of the paperwork
will not be signed)
There, now onto the questions (sorry about the preamble, but I am
getting tired of this).
The existing CU is a Tenby, I've decided that even though 17th is a
while off I'll be 17th compliant (why not, it makes sense). So I see
three obvious options :-
1. RCBO the current CU - this is probably the easiest option, no doubt
the most expensive.
2. Buy a 16th split and swap one RCD for a switch and then RCBO that
half. Currently 16th splits are cheap as chips (no doubt wholesalers
are getting cold feet about unsold stock and impending 17th). Also
this is an expensive option as well.
3. Swap the CU for a 17th part CU.
1 is a problem because its a temby. I know its compatible with Legrand
and I suspect Contactum - but the RCBO are a teary 48+VAT each. Thats
probably going to be a show stopper for me - so does anybody know a
cheapio source of RCBOs for this make. (no not fleabay, I don't want
to have to play around testing them until the circuit is finalised).
If I could get them for the more normal 26+VAT then I would probably
go for this option as it is much less hassle.
2 should be compliant by my understanding, but then I'd still want a
switch (cheap) and 3 or 4 RCBOS (not so cheap). But all the makes are
flogging the 16th CU cheap and the main brands (MK would probably be
my choice) have RCBOS for the 26+VAT.
3 my local wholesaler has a 17th contactum CU which seems like a good
deal (
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products...80slash80.html)
and I know they deliver next day as I have used them before. This
seems like an attractive offer.
Any advice people?
Also its worth pointing out that I have not changed a CU before
(fitted one out yes, so 1 is also an easy option) so any advice people
can offer would be gratefully received. I do have a lot paperwork and
a few instructional DVDs so I am not that concerned. Also, most
importantly, when I had the meter and inlet moved a few years ago I
had an 100A isolator fitted between the CU and tails so for me the job
is much, much safer then for most people.
Still - I'm not proud and I gracefully accept advice from people with
experience. My main question is making sure all fittings and
attachments are good and tight and proper - I would guess there are
some tricks of the trade to be learned there. I don't want to bother
my friendly competent too much (I am relying on him to test all the
works once finished, and that will be one time consuming job).
The last question is about isolation in kitchens. I have been reading
up in my copy of 16th and it clearly states that isolation is only
needed for fixed kitchen units and a switched socket counts as an
isolator for non-fixed units. My friendly competent says that he would
mark down any installation that did not have an isolator for all units
regardless of if they were on sockets or not. I'm talking freezers and
fridges that are not fixed but slide under the work surface. What is
the viewpoint on that? how should 16th part be read on this issue? If
he is correct then my only real option is the spur the two under work
surface sockets up over the work surface and then back down and fit a
FCB at he top as the isolation. A right royal pain that would be to
remove some tiles and refit - but if I must. Also it would be more or
less impossible to meet the recommended 2m distance, I could manage
maybe 1m but my kitchen is tiny, I would more or less have to have the
unit under the worksurface and the isolation direct over it 1ft over
the worksurface. That is a recommendation naturally, not an obligation
- but one I could not meet. By my reading as they are removable items
(floor standing) and on switched sockets they are isolated anyhow and
do not need additional isolation. Comments?
Many thanks in advance to people to read this and have sensible
helpful comments.