L D'Bonnie wrote:
Can you open and close the crack by applying pressure beside or
behind the crack, or by bending and twisting the door?

No, the only way I could get the crack to flex was under heavy clamping
pressure.

If the crack opens and closes, and the wood adjacent to the crack
is sound you may be able to work a water resistant glue into the
crack by opening and closing it, squeezing the glue as deep as
possible into the crack. Also using strips of paper or pins, push
the glue in as deep as possible. Get as much glue as possible into
the crack. Clamp tight to squeeze the glue in. Unclamp and repeat.
I've used this method a few times. If the glue isn't too thick it
can be worked quite deep into the wood. Messy but could save the
door for a few more years possibly longer.

What I ended up doing was using a razor blade and applying as much glue
into the widest portions of the crack (it was wider at the bottom of the
door than at the top) and coated it as well as I could, then I applied 6
36" pipe clamps and squeezed it shut for about 6 hours. I tested to
make sure the door was flat on both sides while clamped and I just
tested again and it seems not to have flexed back, at least not yet.
I'll keep an eye on it over the next couple of days for any changes but
the door closes normally now, which it didn't do before.

Thanks to everyone who had suggestions, I'll probably see if there's a
better solution this summer once I pull the door down for refinishing.
I know I need to get a new mortise-lock for it anyhow, so it'll be good
to pull it all apart and make it like new again.

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