"Bruce L. Bergman" wrote:

On Wed, 05 Mar 2008 01:09:21 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell" wrote:
Harold and Susan Vordos wrote:
"Michael A. Terrell" wrote...
Harold and Susan Vordos wrote:

Hey------only six years and we're *already* hanging drywall! :-)

The question now is, are you doing it with the right side up? ;-)

Right side up?
There's a right side? :-)

Sure, and a front and back, too. let me know when you've put up some
of the 12 footers by yourself. They sure make it easy to do a wall. if
you're really good with joint compound, you can even do the end butt
joint without it showing. ;-)

The white side is the Front and the chipboard is the Back - you'll
notice the edges on the Front are dished in a few inches from the
edges, so when you finish the seams over the screws they left 1/32 for
the paper tape and mud to come out level.

If you put it on upside down you'll put the edges under tension
stress, and the gypsum will not like that.

Or go for the "Paperless" drywall if you live in a damp climate.
Nothing for the mold spores to eat on either side. But it still has
dished edges, and therefore a "front" and a "back".

Oh, install it with the main seams vertical and sheets tall enough
to go floor to ceiling - that way you don't have to deal with butt
seams between ends of sheets. They aren't dished at the ends, so you
will build up a bump there. If the room has a 10' or 12' ceiling, buy
10' or 12' drywall.

On a serious note: When you do use the joint compound, try not to use
too much, then use a damp sponge to smooth the joints after it has set,
and is almost dry. If you're careful you will not be able to see the
seam after the drywall is painted. Using a sander roughs up the paper
surface, and it will show through the paint. After finishing the joints
I used to thin some good white latex wall paint about 2 to 1 with hot
water, and spray a fine coat. Done properly, it looks just like a
plastered wall or ceiling, and will take any color you want. I had two
friends who were professional plasterers convinced that the walls were
plastered, not drywalled. I had to lift some ceiling tiles to show them
the joints.

It takes less time with the damp sponge, than sanding and touching up
your mistakes. I got the idea years ago, while watching my mom removing
the mold marks from some green pottery she was going to paint. They
scrape off the worst of the excess, then use the damp sponge to finish
off the piece.

And when you get it all done like that, then you hit it with the
Orange Peel Spatter gun (air compressor driven - Ob. Metalworking
content) and some thinned Topping mud - knockdown with a big putty
knife optional if you like the flattened pancakes or "hand tooled
plaster" look. Hides all the little mistakes that would drive you
totally insane trying to get perfect.

And be SURE to prime well with PVA primer before painting - slather
it on heavy, it soaks in and then stops the drywall from soaking in
any more. Because if you don't prime and just try to paint raw
drywall, it won't stop sucking in paint as fast as you can put it on
till about the fourth coat, and maybe the sixth will look good...

-- Bruce --

I ran it horizontal because it was going up over 123 year old hand
hewn studs. It was easier to shim, and get a straight wall. That left me
with two seams, one horizontal, the other vertical in a 24 foot by 8
foot wall. You couldn't find the seams when I finished, but it was the
only job I did that required drilling pilot holes for the drywall
screws.


--
My sig file can beat up your sig file!