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John
 
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Default Best Isolating valves for Central Heating Pumps??

Ed said:
"Put silicone grease on reassembly either you or someone unknown will
thank you in the future"

This is fantastic advice - always consider the future dismantling. Some
lubrication will always help. When I moved into a new house I dismantled my
taps and lubricated the mechanism and threads - they still work as smoothly
as new and are easy to dismantle if I need to replace washers.
Likewise - my garage door was well lubricated from new - many neighbours
have had theirs replaced due to breakages. At one time everyone had an
oilcan. Now they seem to be rare. Also a bit of Copperslip on the screws on
the C/H boiler ensure easy dismantling for servicing.



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Regards

John

"Ed Sirett" wrote in message
...
Frank Sweeting wrote:

Hi everyone,

I'm looking for advice on the "best" way to isolate my central heating

pump

6 years ago I had 22mm pump valves fitted (these are the guys that
compression fit to the 22mm pipework, & then fit directly to the pump

flange
with a (removeable from the fitting) large diameter backnut with a

sealing
washer.

The pump failed over the weekend so I popped out, bought a new one &

then
couldnt undo one of the backnuts. - I'm told this isn't unusual - & I

think
I'm going to have to split this backnut to get the pump off

So 2 questions -

1 how can I remove the backnut from the pump - I can swing the isolating
valve & pump around the olive on the 22mm pipework! So the
backnut/washer/pump face are really tightly together! Ive tried bashing

the
pump motor housing with a copper mallet while holding the isolating

valve
body with mole grips - no good! There must be a magic way but I haven't
thought of it yet!

2 & what would you fit as isolating valves - are handle operated 90

degree
ball shut off valves any good over long periods of time?

I hope I've managed to explain the problem enough for you to understand

what
I'm dealing with


The 'magic' technique uses a large lump hammer as an anvil and your
copper mallet.
Put the lump hammer onto a flat of the of the ring nut but towards a
corner.
Whack the opposide face/corner with the copper mallet.
Try both directions - to get some movement into the ring - the inertia
of the pump body does half the work.
The lump hammer protects the pipework.

Some penetrating oil round the ring will help.
Put silcone grease on reassembly either you or someone unknown will
thank you in the future.








--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html



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