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Nate Nagel Nate Nagel is offline
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Default Wet garage floor

aemeijers wrote:
Moo wrote:


""Blattus Slafaly £ ¥ 0/00 ""
wrote in message ...

Moo wrote:

I moved into a 30 year old house this summer, and am getting
seriously ****ed off with puddles of water from melting snow from
the truck. In previous houses, floors have been angled to drain
through the door naturally, although I've never seen it work
particularly well.

In this house the water pools up in a couple of areas, towards the
middle of the floor. To make matters worse, there is a load bearing
2x4 wall in between 2 stalls that is in the middle of one of the
areas where it pools badly. It's starting to rot and I'm probably
destined to replace it (this time with a layer or two of block at
ground level to avoid water touching wood in future).

I really want to find a way of draining the floor. I'm not sure
what the best approach is. If money and time was no option, I would
dig up the floor, put in drains, and have then feed some large
soaking beds under the frost line (3-4 feet here in MN) to the side
of the garage, dug deep enough that they would absorb a lot of
water. I don't really have the time or money for that. Does anyone
have any ideas? Maybe I should dig holes say a foot diameter, 4
feet down, and fill with gravel, cover up with drain etc? I would
need 2 or 3 to catch the key low points, but that would not be too
difficult.

I don't want to do the stupid mats as I know people that have had
them break after one season, and I don't want to have to get the
shop vac out every day. Looking for a low maintenance option.

I've putzed around on google for a few hours looking for ideas, but
most of it is the stupid mats.

TIA for any ideas.

Mat


Put grooves in the floor where it puddles to the garage door, under
the door and out. Hopefully your driveway tapers away from the
garage.Use one of those cement cutting discs in a skill saw and keep
lowering it as you approach the door. You probably don't need much
taper.

--
Blattus Slafaly ? 3 7/8



I like this suggestion.....but any idea how get the grooves at the
right depth and pitch?


Use a tapered board as a guide?

Given how much pawn-shop skilsaws cost (no way do you want to do this
with a good saw), not to mention the abrasive wheels, I'd see if the
local rent-all place has concrete saws. Or given that I would have to
teach myself a use-once skill, I'd just call a concrete cutting or
flatwork company, and see how much they would charge for the work. They
have honkin' big saws, sometimes air-powered from a truck-mounted
compressor, that would make real short work of it. And a flatwork
company would probably even understand what you were trying to
accomplish. Most recent driveways I have seen, the expansion joints are
not floated in by hand old-style, they are saw-cut in the green
concrete. Old cured concrete will be a lot harder, so they will have to
cut slower, but the principles are the same.

aem sends...


I'm surprised nobody's suggested a skim coat of leveling compound...
looks like someone did that to my basement floor years ago and it
appears to have held up well. Not sure how much you can get with it though.

I'd wait for another opinion; I've never done this, just throwing it out
there as an idea.

nate

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