Moo wrote:

""Blattus Slafaly £ ¥ 0/00 "" wrote
in message ...
Moo wrote:
I moved into a 30 year old house this summer, and am getting
seriously ****ed off with puddles of water from melting snow from the
truck. In previous houses, floors have been angled to drain through
the door naturally, although I've never seen it work particularly well.

In this house the water pools up in a couple of areas, towards the
middle of the floor. To make matters worse, there is a load bearing
2x4 wall in between 2 stalls that is in the middle of one of the
areas where it pools badly. It's starting to rot and I'm probably
destined to replace it (this time with a layer or two of block at
ground level to avoid water touching wood in future).

I really want to find a way of draining the floor. I'm not sure what
the best approach is. If money and time was no option, I would dig
up the floor, put in drains, and have then feed some large soaking
beds under the frost line (3-4 feet here in MN) to the side of the
garage, dug deep enough that they would absorb a lot of water. I
don't really have the time or money for that. Does anyone have any
ideas? Maybe I should dig holes say a foot diameter, 4 feet down,
and fill with gravel, cover up with drain etc? I would need 2 or 3 to
catch the key low points, but that would not be too difficult.

I don't want to do the stupid mats as I know people that have had
them break after one season, and I don't want to have to get the shop
vac out every day. Looking for a low maintenance option.

I've putzed around on google for a few hours looking for ideas, but
most of it is the stupid mats.

TIA for any ideas.

Mat

Put grooves in the floor where it puddles to the garage door, under
the door and out. Hopefully your driveway tapers away from the
garage.Use one of those cement cutting discs in a skill saw and keep
lowering it as you approach the door. You probably don't need much taper.

--
Blattus Slafaly ? 3 7/8

I like this suggestion.....but any idea how get the grooves at the right
depth and pitch?
Use a tapered board as a guide?

Given how much pawn-shop skilsaws cost (no way do you want to do this
with a good saw), not to mention the abrasive wheels, I'd see if the
local rent-all place has concrete saws. Or given that I would have to
teach myself a use-once skill, I'd just call a concrete cutting or
flatwork company, and see how much they would charge for the work. They
have honkin' big saws, sometimes air-powered from a truck-mounted
compressor, that would make real short work of it. And a flatwork
company would probably even understand what you were trying to
accomplish. Most recent driveways I have seen, the expansion joints are
not floated in by hand old-style, they are saw-cut in the green
concrete. Old cured concrete will be a lot harder, so they will have to
cut slower, but the principles are the same.

aem sends...