EXT wrote:
"aemeijers" wrote in message
...
Limp Arbor wrote:
A little searching on the Simpson website led me to some anchors that
may satisfy the inspector's requirement for anchor bolts on the new
sill plate.
http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/UFP.asp
Simpson's site is full of code references, load test results, and
corrosion data that should satisfy all but the most obtuse inspector.

But I still need an idea or two on how to lift/support a 12' section
of the two story house where the joists run parallel to the sill
plate.
Like in the side of the house in the first picture here
http://www.coolhouseplans.com/floor.html

Not one of you is clever enough to think of a way to do this?
Bigass steel plates on bottom to spread load, steel beam on top to catch
2-3 joists, and cribbing and jacks in between. Call your local house
moving company- they have all the tools, and more importantly, the
expertise to use them without breaking the house or killing anyone.

Hey, moving that end of house half an inch straight up, is still
housemoving. :^/

And this job is seriously complicated by the brick veneer wall to contend
with. You really cannot lift a house 1/2" without taking it into the factor
as it is attached to the house frame by many brick ties and will want to
move with the house, possibly from causing cracks to failure of the brick
wall.


Yeah, that is a monkey wrench all right. Usually, for veneer brick in a
house jacking or moving, they take down the veneer and just figure that
as part of the cost. On a historic building, I have seen them remove
bottom 2 course of brick, 3 feet at a time, and lag-bolt L-channel to
the house to catch the upper brick. After the foundation work was done,
they removed the channel and replaced the brick, or sawed the saved
brick in half and covered over the steel. But that is a LOT of fussy
masonry work, and would cost a lot, which is why on a modern
brick-veneer house, they usually just take it down.

Only other way I can think to fake it, is to(after house is on jacks),
saw the bottom mortar joint of wall on outside, shove steel T rail
(upside down) in the crack, and jack that as you jack the house.
Afterwards, pull the steel out and tuckpoint.

Rereading the above, it occurs to me that taking down the brick may be
indicated anyway- if the sill is rotted, how did it get wet? Rotten sill
behind brick on a brick ledge below sill level, indicates to me that the
flashing and sheathing were not done properly. Brick is not waterproof,
and if weep holes were blocked or omitted, the cavity between brick and
sheathing may actually be collecting water. Sometimes, taking it all
apart and putting it back together correctly, is the only long-term fix.

But, I can't see your house from here, so all this is just speculation.

aem sends...