On Tue, 26 Feb 2008 10:44:12 +0000, Chris J Dixon wrote:

mick wrote:

It works very well, thanks. I had the same concern at first (especially
as the ceiling is quite low), but I've not had any problem. The PIR has
several settings:

There is about 2 secs fixed delay on switch-on. LUX = max brightness
(30) (I think I should probably have set this lower, but it works!)
TIME1 = 3min
TIME2 = 30min hold-on time after being triggered for TIME1 (IIRC!)
METER = 6m range sensitivity

Which PIR have you used?


That's a very good question... :-) I can't see a maker's name anywhere
on it, it was fitted over 4 years ago and it isn't shown on my original
supplier's web site now. I've probably got the info somewhere, but it'll
be in the "somewhere safe". :-(


I am wavering about filling my kitchen with halogens, but I might be
able to square it with energy use if I include a PIR.


It has to be better than without, doesn't it? :-)

I'm not sure about them now. They look *very* impressive, but if you are
looking for a "working" kitchen then IMHO they are not really the way to
go if you are also looking for efficiency. We seem to get as much, if not
more, usable light from the 2off 2D fittings than we get from the main
downlighters - but the under-cupboard lights are good (if rather bright -
they are 20W halogens). OTOH a few halogens work very well with some
flourescents as they help to "fill in" the colour spectrum.

My particular arrangement was done for a specific reason - a low ceiling.
Normal tube types look stupid in there (we used to have some). The
halogens look so much better, and the 2Ds don't look out of place. I
haven't attempted to light the central floor area with halogens, just put
the light where it is needed. That means that the 2Ds are pretty
important for cleaning up, really.

--
Mick (Working in a M$-free zone!)
Web: http://www.nascom.info http://mixpix.batcave.net