On 2008-02-22, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:
On 2008-02-21, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:
On 2008-02-21, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
FWIW, I just measured the thickness of the original T-nut for the DuMore
toolpost grinder, and it was 0.187". I would have simply left
the one which I made for the Clausing on it, except that it does
not fit under the bridge which supports the toolpost mount in
the case. This is not one of the cases with the hinged front
panel, but rather one with a single hinge at the back.
To take the grinder out you have to:
1) Loosen the nut on the mount rod.
2) Tilt the motor towards the toolpost column against the
spring which keeps the drive belt tight.
3) Slide the original T-nut out from under the bridge.
4) Swap the supplied T-nut for the one made for the
Clausing.
5) Tighten the nut to hold the toolpost column down.
6) Loosen the clamp bolt and slide the grinder off the
column.
7) Slide on the height spacer, and replace the grinder
on the toolpost column.
8) Fit a belt.
9-66 or so) fit the stone, dress it, and do the actual work,
including cleaning the ways of whatever snuck past the
protective covering.
[ ... ]
Same as the Millrite, in both weight and footprint.
O.K. I got the Nichols for only about $200.00 IIRC -- and with
the name match, how could I resist? :-)
I've seen Nichols mills go that cheap around here (Boston area) as well.
But $500 is more common.
O.K. Mine was an older one, FWIW -- old enough to still have
"The Whitney" cast into the column/base.
[ ... ]
I got one dog driver and no faceplate.
All of my faceplates and dog drivers were later acquisitions.
The lathe came to me with:
1 3-jaw chuck with two-piece jaws. (I think that I had to
make a key for it, too. :-)
Mine came with a shop-made key.
While I'm not sure about mine. I know that I had to make at
least one key -- but it may have been for a later chuck from an eBay
auction.
The 4-jaw lacked a key, so I bought one for $14.
I couldn't resist making my own. :-)
1 Lever-style collet closer with nose adaptor and
protector for 2-1/4x8 spindle nose.
1 threading dial (in a drawer).
misc spare chuck jaws, which did not fit the chuck I got.
Check. I also got the mismatched single jaw.
This was a full set of jaws -- just wrong for the chuck in
question. :-)
[ ... ]
Wouldn't a bridge crane be more useful?
Not without a place to mount it. I have a folding engine hoist,
which lives out in /dev/barn01 when I don't need it, because I don't
have enough floor space in the garage^H^H^H^H^H^Hshop.
I looked at portable bridge cranes, such as sold by HF, but my ceiling
is too low. Nor do I have a place to store an engine hoist, so I rent
one from Taylor Rentals when needed, for ~$45 per day. The rental unit
is far heavier than the $170 HF units.
The height problem is another point. The lathe is under a garage
door which bends in sections and stores above the lathe. :-)
Right. My reason to investigate the bridge crane is that the legs on
the typical shop crane can very much get in the way. A bridge crane
doesn't get in its own way nearly as badly.
O.K. I can see that -- but there are too many tools, and too
few square inches of bare floor left. :-)
And can pick things up directly off the floor and raise them to full
height in one operation. The rental shop crane could only lift things
about 3 feet at a time, so one needed to rest the thing on something and
reattach it to the crane with a shorter chain.
O.K. If I tried to lift more than three feet, I would have to
make a hole in the ceiling, and my wife would be quite displeased, as it
would also be a hole in the floor of the room which both of use spend
most of our time in. :-)
And most bridge cranes are big enough that one can use them to move
machines to and from the bed of a flatbed or pickup truck.
Again -- not an option in my shop, with so little clear floor
space -- even if I had the height for the bridge crane.
Some of these days, I've got to get a couple of friends and
spend a day rearranging the tools to get the mills closer together, and
move the grinders away from such precision tools. :-)
[ ... ]
O.K. It was helpful to have the surface grinder for making the
Acme tools with precisely the proper relief angles for the pitch and
diameter I needed to cut. Also a sine plate and a sine bar contributed
too.
That's pretty ambitious. I think I'll just buy Acme thread inserts and
holders if the need arises.
That's what I normally do -- but I've got the largest insert
holder available to fit into my Aloris tool holders, and the inserts
which fit stop short of the acme thread which I had to cut to make a
replacement nut for a friend's leadscrew-driven log splitter. He
ordered a good bronze for the nut, and I made both a dummy external
thread to duplicate the one in the spitter, and then the internal thread
in the nut. For that -- it was a choice of grinding freehand, or using
the surface grinder, and the latter gave me more control of the
clearance angles to match them to the thread which I was cutting. The
external thread was cut with a standard 1/4" HSS bit held in the Aloris
holder, while the internal was a 3/16" bit held in an old boring bar
which fit one of the boring bar holders for the Aloris toolpost.
Enjoy,
DoN.
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