View Single Post
  #133   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair,misc.consumers.frugal-living,sci.electronics.repair
[email protected] hallerb@aol.com is offline
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,199
Default Quick basic advice on a dripping gas 40-gal hot-water heater

On Feb 21, 7:15Â*am, " wrote:
On Feb 21, 2:20�am, "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator"





wrote:
On Thu, 21 Feb 2008 01:41:13 -0500, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
� �I always open an outside faucet wide open for about five minutes any
time the water is turned off to blow as much crap out of the lines
before using anything inside the house.


Hi Michael,
This is a GREAT idea! (if it works).


What I don't get is WHY there was all that sandy stuff after I replaced my
wagter heater. If anything, there should be LESS sediment in the lines, not
more (way more).


Where did all that sandy sediment that clogged every single faucet in our
tiny house come from?


Is this common that sediment blocks everything in one quick pass after
replacing a water heater?


If so, why did NONE of the tutorials I read mention that simple hint you
just gave us?


Donna


ahh when you turn off the water, drain the lines, and turn the water
back on. did you note the shuddering the first time you used water?
thats normal but you have galvanized lines full of crud which broke
loose and clogged stuff.

PEX and copper have smooth insides which dont collect crud.

sorry donna you need all your water lines replaced.

incidently water companies have the same trouble, and this is whu they
flush fire hydrants a couple times a year. confirms the hydrant works
and moves along dirt in lines.

thats why flushing sometimes causes brown or cruddy water- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


with copper of plastic lines its a non issue, and few today have
galvanized.

my neighbor got severly burnt at work after a water outage. when it
was turned back on the hot tea machine sprayed scalding water all over
her hand. she has permanent nerve damage