On Tue, 19 Feb 2008 16:39:22 -0000, "Roger Mills"
wrote:

I use little squares of black tape on a flat surface of the radiators - just
inboard of the valve connections.

Thanks. I'll give that a try.

If the system has previously been balanced, and is in a *reasonable* state
of balance, start with them where they are. Otherwise start with them fully
open.

I think the FAQ advises 1/4 turn adjustments. I thought that valves
like lock shields are non-linear. Does this mean that the first few
turns will make no difference and then near the end, the slightest
turn will make a difference? Should I use turns smaller than 1/4 to
fine tune?

I've got an assortment of radiators all with different lock shields so
each radiator requires a different spanner to adjust the lock shield!
(I can't use the cap off the other valve as these have been replaced
with TRVS).

Do you make changes to several radiators at the end of each run or
just one radiator per run? Or do you tweak as you go along?

2 or 3 at the most. Turn down the ones with the smallest temperature
differential.

I'm having most problems with the towel radiator in the bathroom. It's
scalding hot to touch but not showing much of a temperature drop.
Should the drop across a towel radiator be the same as the
"conventional" radiators?

How accurate should I be in matching temperature drops. Should I try
to get each rad. to have a drop of say 10C, or does it matter if one
has 8C, another 12C, another 9C, etc?

How long should I wait for things to stabilise before re-measuring?

Probably about 10 minutes - but you need to make sure that the system is
running the whole time - so turn any room stats up to max, and open some
windows if necessary.

Daft question: does the boiler need to be firing? Or as long as the
pump is circulating hot water is that enough?

Thanks again.