In article ,
says...
"James Sweet" wrote in message
news:atouj.5014$_T3.3895@trnddc07...

"Bob M." wrote in message
. ..
"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" wrote
in message ...

2. Even Superman couldn't would have a tough time removing mine ...
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2033/...b7d618.jpg?v=0

Given it took a pipe wrench plus a huge cheater bar to remove the anode
with the water heater removed and blocked on the ground ... and given
that

On your new heater, take the anode out and wrap the threads once with
teflon tape or anti-seize compound. Much easier to remove the next time;
still provides protection too.

Doesn't it still need to be grounded to the tank?

I remember from boats that the sacrificial anode needs a good solid ground
connection to the engine or transmission block.




Yes, and it is even with a layer of teflon tape. Can be easily tested with
a meter. If someone's really concerned, use anti-seize compound available
at auto parts places. It's used for spark plugs.

Automotive anti-seize compounds should not be used for potable water
connections, due to the presence of petroleum distillates and metals
such as nickel or molybdenum.

--Gene