On Mon, 18 Feb 2008 23:24:54 GMT, James Sweet wrote:
On your new heater, take the anode out and wrap the threads once with
teflon tape or anti-seize compound. Much easier to remove the next time;
still provides protection too.
I remember from boats that the sacrificial anode needs a good solid ground
connection to the engine or transmission block.

Hi James,

Many articles I find on replacing the sacrificial anode discuss the use of
Teflon tape to prevent leaks. Apparently the threads cut right through the
tape to make plenty of metal to metal contact in the steel tank.

For example, "This Old House"
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/vide...047047,00.html
shows a video of a destroyed sacrificial anode (just like mine) and a
passivated (covered in Calcium deposits) sacrificial anode. They replaced
it with both a three-foot-eight-inch straight anode and a three-link
sausage-shaped collapsible anode (for tight spaces). Both had Teflon tape
in the threads!

In addition, this article was written by a housing specialist and was
reviewed by three PH.D.s and the EPA - and it clearly says to use Teflon
tape on the sacrificial WH anode for replacement:
http://www.fcs.uga.edu/ext/pubs/hace/HACE-E-60-05.pdf
They say:
"Wrap the threads of the new rod in Teflon tape."

This article by John Wood Heaters also says to use Teflon tape:
http://www.johnwoodwaterheaters.com/...chsupport.html
They say:
"Wrap threads of the anode with plumber¢s tape or use pipe dope approved
for use with potable water, and install the (new) anode into tank and
tighten."

This very informative series of articles are some of the best I've seen
explaining sacrificial anodes for water heaters and other topics.
http://216.250.104.54/default.cfm?PageId=42306
It covers lots of interesting topics, including how to bend anodes to fit
them in tight spaces but unfortunately, it doesn't cover the Teflon issue.