"Robert Allison" wrote in message
news:U1Etj.29778$we5.9122@trnddc02...
Robert Allison wrote:
MiamiCuse wrote:
"Robert Allison" wrote in message
news:nSisj.1564$r03.1357@trnddc08...
wrote:
I am wondering how these bathrooms are done without a shower curb:
http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/project_...om/wetroom.jpg
http://www.impey-showers.com/prod_img/hd6_s_1.jpg
There is still a shower pan below, or no? Or you have to consider the
entire bathroom a giant shower pan and slope everything to the shower
drain?
I have a bathroom I am remodeling where the space between the shower
edge and the closet flange is two inches less than the minimum
clearance (16") and I don't want a 4"-6" thick curb to hold up the
shower door, I was thinking this may be the solution, but may be there
are other creative ways.
Thanks,
MC
Just the shower area has a shower pan, and this situation usually
requires a ground floor on a slab with a depressed area in the slab for
the pan. It can be done as a retrofit if you want to chip out the
concrete for the pan space.
In the past, I have done several of these for ADA compliant shower
accessability. Since then, the look has become fashionable, so I have
done several for non-ADA situations and they do look quite good.
The idea is that the shower area will have a pan and the shower floor
will be sloped to the drain. The rest of the floor might get wet, but
it can be wiped up or squeegeed into the shower area.
One thing that you need to know about these types of showers is that
the drain must be a 2" drain with two inch DWV. (Showers require this
anyway, according to code, but in a retrofit, I don't know what you are
converting from.) You don't want water backing up in the shower pan as
you have very little capacity and the lack of curb makes a stopped up
drain much more dangerous.
Perhaps for that reason, I have only seen these on a ground floor. I
have only seen them in houses on a slab, but they can be installed on
other types of foundations as well (I just haven't personally done
any).
Here is an example of a fiberglass pan for this situation for
illustration purposes:
http://www.barrierfree.org/fiberglass_shower_pans.htm
You can make this pan using any standard shower pan method. Search for
barrier free or ADA compliant pans.
--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX
Allison thanks. My shower area is about 5x7, and right now half of the
concrete slab is out since I relocated the drains...but I am not sure I
want to bust up the entire shower area then pour a thinner slab. 2"
drain is not a problem I think my new drain is 2" PVC, there wasa an old
1.5" brass drain for tub that I took out.
You don't pour it thinner, just deeper. Since this is a retrofit, you
would remove the concrete in the shower area, plus some of the dirt
underneath. Dowel some rebar into the existing slab, then pour your 4"
of concrete from the edges, sloped toward the drain. You only have to be
down the thickness of the tile + your pan at the edges and just slightly
lower at the drain. If you use the rubberized membrane for your shower
pan, the depth below finished floor at the edges is only about 3/4".
How do they attach a piece of glass to the ceiling and floor and yet it
stays frameless. Does the floor and ceiling need to be "notched" to
slide the piece of glass in? or metal channels need to be installed into
the walls?
Thanks,
MC
There are different ways to attach the glass, but they are not notched
into either the floor or the walls. They are seated on small hard rubber
pads and then siliconed into place. The real strength comes from the
corner brackets which allow the glass to be fastened together and to the
wall. You can see these in the second link that you supplied at the top
and bottom of the corners.
I forgot to mention that some frameless incorporate these clear channels
when the walls or floor are not straight or not flat enough to use just
silicone. You can see examples he
http://www.crlaurence.com/ProductPag...4.html?Origin=
--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX
Thanks Robert.
In looking at these frameless glass basically "glue" at top and bottom, free
on one end and bracketed on the other...I wonder if this would be a safety
issue in case someone for example, slip on the tile and not thinking and
hold out their hands in hope of the glass panel will break their fall only
to crash through it...They need to be thick structural glass 1/2" minimum
don't they?
MC