"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" wrote in
message
HOT-WATER-HEATER REMOVAL:

While the old dripping hot-water heater is still firmly in place ...
- Shut natural gas at the main gas meter
- Shut natural gas at the local hot-water heater
- Ensure the pilot light is out before separating any gas plumbing lines
- Shut the household cold water at the main water valve
- Shut the cold-water inlet to the hot-water heater

No need to turn both off if the valves work, but can't hurt.


- Open all hot-water faucets in the house to drain off pressure

One low valve will drain off the pressure in seconds.


- Wait two hours, if possible, to allow the hot water in the tank to cool

Turn the gas off the night before. Alternately, turnt he gas off, run the
hot water to dilute what is in there a bit, then drain. Easier than sitting
around two hours for a very little temperature loss. 40 gallon in an
insulated thank is quite a bit of mass.


- Connect a garden hose to the water heater drain valve
- Open drain valve and drain hot water where it will not damage anything
- Disconnect garden hose and close drain valve when done (40 or 50
gallons)

It won't drain unless you allow air to get in. Disconnect the top lines,
then drain.


- Unbolt earthquake straps (if any)
- Unscrew the sheet-metal screw holding the vent pipe to the draft hood
- Separate the vent pipe from the draft hood

In your parts list I did not see anything for the vent hood that will be 5"
shorter. Can you just cut the existing flue pipe?



- Remove all gas plumbing up to and including the old shut-off valve


Why? I didn't see any gas fittings on the parts list. If the gas is int he
same location, just greak the union and put the pip below it into the new
unit, then reconnect.



TURN ON THE WATER SUPPLY:
- Open all the hot-water faucets in the house to bleed out air

I'd leave them closed all along the way, save for one. No need to drain the
entire system and makes purgin air easier later.