On Feb 15, 9:30 am, Mike Dobony wrote:
On Fri, 15 Feb 2008 05:51:48 -0800 (PST), RicodJour wrote:

Good suggestion. http://www.kilianhardware.com/ceilbutplasw.html

I would not use this on standard drywall as it will require a very thick
coating of mud as a skim coat. You would need to use the green board for
this. If concerned about nail pops, then do 5 screws in the field and make
sure you use either the dimpling bithttp://www.renovationadvice.com/tools/drywall_tools.htmor a real screw gun
with a positive depth setting clutch, not the drill torque clutch.

There is no need for a very thick coat of mud (there is just as much
mud in any given corner or on tapered edges in a standard
installation), there is no need to use green board (green board and
not blue board?), and the ceiling buttons distribute the stress far
better than any single screw head. It's not a question of the screw
threads holding in the wood, it's a question of the head pulling
through the face paper. Spacing the screws 8" apart instead of 12"
doesn't address the screw pulling through the face paper. If you
don't want to cover the buttons with mud, then use a small scrap piece
of plywood or stiff plastic to act as a button while you screw the
drywall in place then remove the scraps and finish off with standard
screws.

In either event, the loose fill insulation is a problem. Using screws
to compress the insulation that is already between the drywall and the
joists and pull the drywall up tight is not a viable solution. You
will be able to reattach the drywall using just screws, but it will
not be tight to the framing. Having drywall that is not tight to the
framing is a sure way to insure that you repair your repair down the
road for reasons I mentioned before.

R