BAM! Tim, listen to your elders! What Wild Bill says is that there is no
shortcut to knowledge. This is particularly true in his remarks re. "Keep
rephrasing the question until the answer is the one you're looking for". If
you spent the time studying motor theory that you've spent on experimenting
with one crappy motor; then you'd be equipped to answer some of your own
questions. Don't get me wrong, here, Tim. Experimentation is a good thing
but it is no sure path to knowledge and understanding. Besides it can be
dangerous, roughly in a manner related inversely to the operator's
knowledge. One sage, Franklin I believe, put it well when he went
"Experience keepeth a dear school, but a fool learneth no other way".

Bob (Nature abhors a fool) Swinney

"Wild Bill" wrote in message
...
Well there doesn't seem to be any info about how you built your own vacuum
tubes, in your tutorials. It can be acomplished in a kitchen, in case you
suppose that's too bizarre.

Magnetism for motors is a lot like (what's happening in) transformers,
which
you seem to have an understanding of. Motors are essentially just iron and
wire (with a couple of additional parts, sometimes).
The subject motor is one of the simplest of all. Before you can proceed to
learn how it can be reversed and run at variable speed, ya pretty much
gotta
know how it starts (you don't wanna be a "noob not knowing a damn"..
paraphrased from your advice page).

(1)---------(2)----------(3)

That's it, kinda easy so far. If you don't read continuity as 1 to 2, 2 to
3, and certainly 1 to 3, then you don't have a motor, you just have an
oversized inductor.. since there is a fault (open circuit) in a winding.
There should be no continuity from any of the stator leads to the case, of
course.

Your motor might have a thermal protection device in it. If it does, it's
usually stated on the data plate on the motor housing or in the
manufacturer's specs. In small motors like this one, the TP is usually a
self-resetting bimetal type which could mounted within the stator.
Larger motors commonly have a mechanically attached TP device mounted to
the
back end bell, and sometimes they're manually reset (button exposed on
rear
of motor), or they may be self-resetting/no button.

The PSC motor doesn't start without the capacitor. I think you're familiar
with the term phase, related to AC. The capacitor creates the required
phase.. and if you've ever read the converter posts in RCM, you'll know
how
and/or why the capacitor is paramount.
When I used the description "2 phase" a couple of days ago, you would've
probably understood the PSC motor operation if you were being attentive.
It's a simple matter of knowing what's your vector, Victor.

This extended reply is the reason I generally don't reply to electrical
questions. I'm no genius or the hero complex type. I noticed that you were
getting a couple of replies that would likely create some confusion. I
failed to factor in the mysticism parameter.
I've encountered numerous people that want to hear a particular answer
when
they ask a question, and when they don't, they'll modify the question to
try
to get the answer they want to hear.
I'm very familiar with these motors and have built amplifiers (starting
several decades ago), and I would assume that no one gives a fat rat's
ass.

To test a PSC motor, you've gotta have continuity as shown above.
An earth ground lead is securely attached to the motor case.
The AC neutral lead can be attached to 2.
The appropriate AC capacitor is connected between 1 and 3.
The fused AC line lead can be attached to 1 or 3 (not both).
It should be readily apparent, blatently obvious, plain as the nose.. why
the term 2 phase is used, even if your motor doesn't start.

If it doesn't start on it's own, then it's not going to (no matter how you
connect any type of power to it, even 637V 12 phase with an RF boost and a
7.8 farad capacitor isn't gonna make it start).

If it has a fault, you can throw it away, or determine where the fault is
(just to be thorough). There's absolutely no sane reason for being
thorough,
although having knowledge for the next time could be perceived as being
worthwhile.
Of course, some of the parts and materials are worthwhile, if nothing
else.
The hand spin start isn't worth much more than a cheap thrill since the
motor's power output is about zero.squat (you'll have to check my math,
'cause I think I might've missed a zero or two).

Troubleshooting.. a TP device is typically connected (inside the motor) in
series with the external lead going to connection 2.
If the TP is open (it shouldn't be, but parts fail), there will still be
continuity between 1 and 3, but none from 2 to 1, or 2 to 3.

Maybe your motor doesn't have a TP device, and the data plate/or specs
might
state impedance protected. In this case, the continuity should be as
stated
in the motor-or-inductor evaluation mentioned earlier. As a review,
continuity isn't affected by weird science, or a question of what's the
frequency, Kenneth.

If the motor did start and run, that doesn't absolutely confirm that it's
fault-free.. there could be the possibilities of overheating, intermittent
operation, capacitor fault or other problems.

I've proof readed this information, and certify that it's more-or-less
somewhat accurate, to a fairly reasonable degree.
And I'd bet the life of somebody's cat on that.

WB
.................

"Tim Williams" wrote in message

some stuff about something