Red Green wrote in
:
Art Todesco wrote in
. net:
I have been a KitchenAid owner for 36
years. I have replaced many over
the years. The newer ones definitely
have a much shorter life. I have babied
several units by fixing them myself to
extend their life. The last one
only lasted about 5 or 6 years. The
replacement parts would have cost about
1/2 of the street price of a new one.
Plus KA offered me a $100 "coupon" if
I stayed with KA. So we again went with
KA. We are planning on building
a new home and will definitely NOT
consider KA for the dishwasher.
Now, off my soapbox:
Mine did the same thing about a month
ago. But it did it only once. The panel
indicated that it was "heating water"
however, it got cool. You sound like a good
DIYer so, did you check for power on the
element while it was washing and washing?
You can then trace back from there. Do
you have a schematic?
Did a lot more research and found the tech sheet for it and an full
exploded parts diagram. Parts diagram shows you can't get at the
heating element without taking out the DW. No room under kickplate and
it's way in back behind motors/pumps. And to boot the water supply is
soft copper vs a hose. A very short piece of soft copper that you
can't pull it out without disconnecting.
It does show the thermostat right up front behind the kickplate.
Tech sheet:
http://hostfile.org/8533399p2.pdf
I don't have much experience reading these but ancient electronic
skills. I highlighted the thermostat and heater. If I read this right
the orange wire on one side of the thermostat goes right to the
heater, The other side of the heater is tied to the 120 AC line white
common. The sheet also said the heater element should be 10-35 ohms.
After killing the power, I pulled the orange wire off the thermostat
and put an ohm meter from it to the white side of where the line is
connected into the DW. Got 200k-300k ohms. To me this says the element
or a connection to it is bad.
If anyone a little more experienced want's to give me some warm fuzzys
on this please do. Like I said. Virtually no experience reading those
diagrams.
BTW, I think $1000
is way too high for any dishwasher ....
unless it included installation, of
course. I just
googled KA dishwashers and found, on a
very quick look, prices from $600 to $1200,
ouch! I don't know what made one unit
over $1K and others so much cheaper, but,
I don't think anything is worth that
much unless it comes with a maid to load
and unload
the unit!
Red Green wrote:
I looked for an appliance repair NG. The only one I found is pretty
inactive.
We have a Kitchen Aid KUDS01FL SS0 dishwasher. About 6 yrs old with
original cost of 1k-1200. It had two problems and now has one.
Wasn't cleaning. Took apart and found the chopper assembly committed
suicide. Replace that and it cleans OK.
Second issue is it runs too long. Book says 96 min on normal. It
runs 2.5-3hrs. Have done research and dialog with RepairClinic.com.
They say possibilities a
Heating element kit with electronic control" $59.75.
(goofy-if you get just the control board it's $85! Go figure)
High-limit tub thermostat $13.25
Thermistor $47.20
The board I can't really test.
The heating element is getting hot but not sure if enough.
Thermostat & thermistor I don't know if I can test.
I can get the whole wad delivered for $130 but does anyone have any
pointers on testing?
Thanks,
Red...
OK, this one is put to bed I believe. Basically posting this for anyone
doing future reference.
Ordered the parts above from RepairClinic.com. Got here in two days
since I specified 2 day FedEx.
Pulled DW out and measured heating element right at the connections.
Same 200k-300k measurements as from orange wire at thermostat mentioned
previously. Guess I can read those diagrams to some extent. New element
right in spec at 10-30 ohms. Replaced heater element.
Heating element kit with electronic control" $59.75.
(goofy-if you get just the control board it's $85! Go figure)
Figured this one out. I got the $60 one. It's a paired item and a
Whirlpool authorized heater service kit. Specifically said you MUST
install that control board when you install this heater. Some timings
change and board accomodates new heater wattage. Came with a new tech
sheet as well. The p/n on the new Whirlpool board number is different
than the original Whirlpool number.
I suspect if you want only the board at $85 and not change the element
(???), you get the original board p/n as when new. That is what matches
the original heater. Premium for being stupid or having a DW cemented in
place I guess.
Checked old thermister at room temp since ambient resistance was shown
on the original tech sheet. It was out of spec by about 15-20%. Checked
new thermistor at the same time and it was well in spec. Expensive
little part @ $47 but while the thing was all apart and I had the new
part in hand it would be foolish not to change it. Not as stupid as I am
cheap I guess.
High limit thermostat: I think all this does is kill something if the
tub gets way too hot. Metal thermostat cap is just pressed up on the
bottom of the metal tub from underneath. Old one seemed fine. Obviously
since DW runs and it showed nearly 0 ohms at room temp. In hand, $14,
changed it.
Got a good intro education on dishwashers with this. Also came across a
place where I can get most full tech sheets like:
http://hostfile.org/TechSheet8533399.pdf
with just a model number. If anyone needs one just post a holler. I'd
post the source URL but am concerned it would propagate over the
internet and eventually they'll lock it out with too many server hits
suddenly starting.
Red...