Make your life a little easer and instead of moving the strike plate, make
the hole in the strike plate that the latch goes into a little bit bigger.
This way you will mot have to deal with moving screw holes over a half a
hole or having to fill the gap left by moving the strike.

Hear is what I would do. First, stand on the stop side of the door and
allow the door to come to rest with out any pressure on it to straighten the
bow. Observe the distance between the door stop and the door in line with
the latch.

Now tug the door closed so that it latches fully. The distance at the same
point will be less than your original observed distance, and the difference
is the amount you need to move the hole in the strike plate.

I allow about a + 1/32" more but do not exceed this or you will be too
loose.

If you have a lipped strike, (A small tab folded into the strike hole) you
can either file the lip off, or make a visit to your local locksmith and he
might be able to supply you with a flat strike plate in the same finish and
dimension.

--
Roger Shoaf
If you are not part of the solution, you are not dissolved in the solvent.


"Mike" wrote in message
...
One of the bedroom doors in my house is slightly bowed and the door
will not latch without giving it a good tug. When I close the door,
the top and the bottom of the door make contact with the door frame,
meanwhile the middle part of the door near the door knob is about 1/8"
out and not latched. I can give the door knob a pull and it will
latch and stay closed. The door itself is a run-of-the-mill 25 year
old hollow interior door. Short of replacing the door, does anyone
have any advice on making the door close and latch easier?

Thanks a lot....

Mike