On Fri, 18 Jan 2008 18:26:36 -0500, "SBH"
wrote:

Anyone have any experience or knowledge of Craftsman Radial Arm saw
regardless of the year, though not extremely ancient? The Craigslist ads in
my area have a good selection of those selling the Craftsman saw. Some are
listed as older but working great, one is a newer digital model, etc. but I
was wondering why so many Craftsman models are being sold or are the sellers
really just not using them anymore. Since I'm in the market for a radial arm
saw, I thought I'd consider one for sale, since I'm not ready for anything
expensive just yet.

I'd stay away from the digital models. I always saw them as a solution
looking for a problem, and although I have zero experience with them,
I do have experience with a 1972 model, and adding digital to that
design is just a misalignment waiting to happen.

Having said all that, like most Craftsman tools, they are generally
underwhelming, although you can get some good work out of them so long
as you understand their limitations (I've had both a 1960's era Model
100 table saw and the aforementioned RAS). In the case of the RAS, as
stated elsewhere, they are some work to keep aligned. Any kickback,
bump on the table, or change in humidity will necessitate realignment
(okay, I made that up about humidity). The process isn't tedious or
difficult, but the tool is not like a good table saw which may *never*
need realignment.

My 1972 was just about the last of the solid cast iron column
supports. Starting very soon after, the column support was split
halves bolted together. With nothing more than a gut feeling, I always
felt that meant a cheaper, perhaps inferior design.

My 1972 also had a lockable On/Off switch right on the motor head
right by the handle. It's very convenient to operate. Others, both
earlier and later, had the switch in other places, notably at the end
of the arm.

My 1972 had the elevation crank under the table. That always seemed
right to me (just like a table saw), but many models before and after
had the crank on top of the column. Since that was probably a direct
drive (as opposed to at least one set of corner gears in mine) it
might have been a better design, less prone to backlash or other
error-introducing effects.

My 1972 had the arm lock as a knob on the end of the arm--several
others had a T-handle lock on top of the arm (but still out toward the
end). I don't think there's anything inherently good or bad about
either.

Here are a couple of Sears RAS pictures which will illustrate some of
the foregoing::

http://www.woodbutcher.net/images/tools/sears-ras-2.jpg
This one is virtually identical to mine. It's probably the same model.
Note the switch, the arm lock, the elevation crank handle.


http://www.woodbutcher.net/images/tools/sears-ras.jpg
This may be a little later version, but it could be a little earlier
(can't tell without seeing the column). It is representative, however,
of the RASes Sears was selling from the late '60s through the early
'80s--and even perhaps later.

If possible, check model numbers (as with all Sears tools, make sure
the three digit number followed by a period followed by a five or six
digit number is included) to see if the one in question is covered by
the recall. http://radialarmsawrecall.com/

The recall may not be of any significance to you if you are a hobbyist
woodworker, but the Chicken Littles of the world will suggest gloom
and doom of all kinds if you operate a "recalled" tool. If the saw
under consideration is covered, you can get a new blade guard and a
new table.

If it isn't, they'll (Emerson) give you $100 if you send them the
motor. Note, that you will then have a virtually useless chunk of cast
iron, sheet metal, and particle board. Moreover, you will probably
spend a good chunk of that $100 in shipping to get the motor to them.

I still have my 1972 saw, but haven't used it in years. I'd like to
sell it, since I find my work style has moved in a different
direction. It's not that the RAS in general, and the Sears in
particular, is an awful tool. I just find the table saw to be a better
fit for me and my shop space. If I had another 200 or 300 ft^2 in my
shop, I'd consider keeping it as I've also found you can never have to
many saws.

I hope this helps.

--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net
http://www.normstools.com

Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997

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