I've used Tapcons to secure 16" deep shelving to block walls and have
a icture of me sitting on one after hanging it up. Its still there
some twenty plus years on.

I used them in my basement to hang the electrical (After sealing the
walls with coats of Dry-Loc).

Finishing a basement should not required footers or two-by fours.
Rather furring strips set vertically 16" O.C. with horizontal members
set 1/2" to 3/4" above the floor and across the top. (Cover the gap
with plastic base molding) Using adhesive as well as tap-cons in pre-
drilled and counter-sunk holes works well, filling the "voids" with
3/4" expanded foam or similar insulation before applying (glued and
nailed/screwed) drywall up the first 3 feet or so and plywood or OSB
above (provides good nailing/attachment surface/base) works nicely. A
drywall hopper gun ($20 at HFT) and a little dry-wall mud allows for a
great finish for a shop (I did walls and ceiling). I sued High Gloss
Ultra White from Home Depot and achieved a bright, clean and highly
reflective surface that works great for older eyes.

If you use Tapcons for the electrical. use the hex head versions and
set the drill driver clutch to its lowest setting and move it up
incrementally as you "find" the best setting For use in attaching
wood that will be sheathed subsequently, pre-drill and countersink and
use the philipps-head version of th Tapcons. Drive them to secure and
do NOT try to "bury them."

The powder-actuated approach works quickly and holds cans well-enough
and the trigger model would be worth the extra expense (and can be
sold after the job to recoup most of the expense via Craigslist or
similar). but th final results for such a task are equivalent. Blow
out is most likely laid at th feet of the installer, concrete or block
rather than the fastener.

Pay attention to the Tapcon drill size - use the size that comes with
or is called or on the box of fasteners.