View Single Post
  #7   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
Twayne Twayne is offline
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 168
Default Tapcon or Powder Actuated for attaching metal boxes to concrete

wrote:
I'm installing lots of electrical boxes to the concrete walls in my
basement. About 29 boxes and 58 one hole straps to hold the 6 foot
length of 1/2" EMT conduit. Choices are a rotary hammer with SDS bit
and Tapcon screws. I already own the Makita rotary hammer, bought for
this job a year ago. Haven't used the rotary hammer drill yet but I
have installed electrical boxes with Tapcon and a hammer drill in the
past and hated the hammer drill. Or purchase a Remington powder
actuated tool and use the powder and nails. $20 for the hammer hit
Remington, $40 for the trigger model that looks like the hammer model,
or $70 for the trigger model that looks like a pistol. I've used
powder tools to attach 2x4s to concrete and they worked great for
that. Cost isn't really a concern since these amounts are not
material. Concern is more time, neatness, effort, frustration, etc.

So for attaching 29 handy boxes and the 58 conduit clips to 8 year old
concrete walls, which would be the most pleasant to use? Concrete has
that brick mold look to it from the forms if that matters.

If powder actuated, does it make sense to get the trigger models so
placement of the hndy box or clip on the wall will be easier than with
the hammer model?


Having used powder actuated hammer shooter, I have to admit I liked it
over drilling when there were more than a few nails to shoot.
Check the balance on the one you buy if you go this route: My first
was a cheapie and wasn't balanced for crap; next to impossible to hold
steady on the mark for nailing on a vertical surface. After about ten
shots I quit and went out to buy another one I'd looked at, now
understanding why it "felt" better in the store. The handhold was
balanced so it'd stay in place with only moderate pressure & not move
off the mark.

If you decide to shoot: TEST first! Some concretes will turn to dust
when they get hit with a powder nailer and they don't hold for shinola.
It worked like a dream on a 12 x 25' shed for the footers, and to put a
wall footer in my garage. But I tried it on a basement wall and woof!
All it did was shoot out huge craters where the nail hit it, regardless
of what grain size I used. And trust the charts for nail length.

If I didn't have the minor experience I have, I'd probabyl opt to drill
but I've managed to ruin two good drills in my past lives because of the
dust they create. If I have to drill now i wrap the tool in a few
layers of cheesecloth with an air conditioner filter underneath to
protect the innards. Sorry; I'm talking about electric corded drills
here, not pneumatic impact types; those work pretty well too.

I'm particularly curious about how the trigger types work for powder
shooting; never used one but looked at them. It almost seems to me that
recoil would make them less useful, compared to the mass of a hammerhead
behind the tool when you whack it.

HTH a little at least, maybe, sorta, uhh, somewhat,

Twayne