Jim Thompson wrote:

On Tue, 08 Jan 2008 14:14:26 -0500, **THE-RFI-EMI-GUY**
wrote:



Jim Thompson wrote:



On Sun, 06 Jan 2008 15:16:02 -0500, **THE-RFI-EMI-GUY**
wrote:





Beware of any of these products when using a cable box or satellite
receiver. I bought a "Hidden IR" system from Smarthome last year and
found out that my cable remote used a 56 kHz subcarrier which was higher
than the frequency response of the "Hidden IR" system. Ultimately I was
able to exchange for different hardware that worked, but the
incompatibility was not well advertised in the marketing by Smarthome
and I spent several days trying to figure out why the cable remote only
worked in a narrow angle from the IR pick up.





[snip]

I forgot to ask... which brand ultimately worked with the 56KHz
subcarrier?

...Jim Thompson




From my order to replace the hidden IR system: Part numbers are from
Smarthome site.

1 8134 - 1-Zone Connecting Block (4 Emitter Outs)
1 8194A - 12v Regulated Power Supply
1 CL-8108PP2 - Plasma Proof 40 & 56khz IR Target
3 8170S - Stick-On IR Emitter

Note; this is not an "over coax" system. You can hook these up with twisted wire. I suggest you download the instructions from their website to see how far you can extend the IR target. The IR Target device is the "critical" piece as far as operating with most remotes. The connecting block I beleive has the emitter coupled amps to drive up to 4 IR emitters for the cable boxes and receivers.

Beware, when you use such a system, you need to make sure that the remote control is not "seen" by both the IR target and the device you are controlling simultaneously or there will be "delay spread" which will corrupt the signalling. In my case, since the devices I am controlling are inside a teak wall cabinet, unless the doors are open, all works fine. If the target were remotely installed in another room, then conceivably, the devices *cable box etc) could be out in the open and the remote would work fine locally.



What I'm wanting to do is control the cable box (in the great room)
from both the kitchen and my office ;-)

Which is why, after the less-than-stellar-performing RF-link Terk
experience, I'm looking into the insert-IR-on-coax systems.

...Jim Thompson


I tried those Pyramid IR- RF links and they were terrible. Far better to
go with a wired in approach. The insert IR approach is going to require
some sort of "DC" injector to get signal onto and off the coax. Then you
have to deal with supplying power at the IR Target's amplifier as well
as the IR splitter amp. Personally, I would pull some new wires.

--
Joe Leikhim K4SAT
"The RFI-EMI-GUY"©

"Treason doth never prosper: what's the reason?
For if it prosper, none dare call it treason."

"Follow The Money" ;-P