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ATJaguarX ATJaguarX is offline
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Default Proper insulation for the Chicagoland area?

On Jan 7, 4:00*pm, ransley wrote:
On Jan 7, 3:55*pm, ATJaguarX wrote:





On Jan 7, 8:41*am, ransley wrote:


On Jan 7, 8:37*am, ATJaguarX wrote:


On Jan 5, 9:28*am, ransley wrote:


On Jan 5, 1:39*am, Big_Jake wrote:


On Jan 4, 1:51 pm, ransley wrote:


On Jan 4, 1:11 pm, ATJaguarX wrote:


On Jan 4, 9:18 am, ransley wrote:


On Jan 4, 8:56 am, ATJaguarX wrote:


On Jan 3, 10:50 pm, ransley wrote:


On Jan 3, 8:49 pm, ATJaguarX wrote:


On Jan 3, 6:01 pm, dpb wrote:


ATJaguarX wrote:


...


I can understand the oversized furnace issue.


Well, the first reference concludes that their research to determine the
effect of sizing on efficiency wasn't so successful -- see earlier
quote. *I also doubt unless it were _grossly_ wrong that the cycling off
a few times per hour could be measured in reduced longevity vis a vis
the more continual operation.


What I don't understand
is why my furnace will shut off and fire back up 10 mins later when I
have my thermostat set to 69 degrees. *I would think that the furnace
should be able to stay off for longer then that. *I've noticed that
the thermostat never drops a single degree before it kicks the furnace
back on again. *Is there something internal on the thermostat that
measures fractions of a degree?


Possibly could be an excessively sensitive thermostat or perhaps there's
a breeze blowing by it that it's sensing on the switching element or
something similar. *It may also have a sensitivity adjustment,
particularly if it is digital, not analog.


--


I've gone through the installation manual and there is an option to
set the cycles per hour, but nothing about sensitivity.- Hide quoted text -


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There must be a setting for degree setback . On my Lux it has 1- 10 ,
I have it set I think at 3 or 4 and it is not degrees, but it is not
at this location so I dont know . Modern thermostasts have this
option, read your non understandable, illogical, *Chinese manual that
came with it..Or just set setback up 1 number and experement.- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Another cold night of drafty windows. *Winds were blowing from the
south and the rooms on the south side of the house experienced a temp
of 66 while the thermostat was at 69.- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


I just googled and found SilverLine windows are a division of Anderson
which are tops, Contact Anderson also I think a rep will come out for
free immediatly, Anderson did for me, Being a division of Anderson
they should be well made- Hide quoted text -


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After doing some digging on Silverline's website, I found the
following:


"The ENERGY STAR program was developed by the US Department of Energy
and the US Environmental Protection Agency to help consumers identify
products that save energy and, therefore, keep your home more
comfortable. All Silver Line windows and patio doors, when ordered
with the appropriate glass, meet or exceed the ENERGY STAR guidelines
in all 50 states."


- All Silver Line windows ... when ordered with the appropriate glass,
meet or exceed the ENERGY STAR guidelines...". *Now, were my windows
ordered with the appropriate glass... thats the question...- Hide quoted text -


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Your issue is not the glass, yet. To meet or exceed ES guidlines
verified air infiltration tests should be good meaning you could have
a defect. I dont think you should feel air comming in on an Energy
Star window, get the test data from silverline and compare it to
others.


The SilverLine 1200 windows are plain insulated glass, while the 9500
series have low-E glass. *I am guessing that the 9500's (about 30%
more expensive +/-) carry the energy star rating.


You can be mad at the builder, but if there aren't any regulations
requiring the builder to use a window that meets a certain rating,
then it is hard to expect them to use anything better than what is
required.


I am doing a major addition on my house, and all my windows are
Marvins, at an average cost of $450 / window. *I could get Silverline
1200's in the same size for about $100 each. *A builder isn't going to
do this, since they are trying to make money on the house, where I am
trying to make something that I will be proud to live in for the next
20 years.


JK- Hide quoted text -


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Even a 100$ window should not have noticable air leaking in from the
channel where the window slides up and down, Im sure there is a good
air infiltration rating published for them at silverline, the question
is whether they meet the rating and if the install is an issue,
defects occur but can the HO figure it out. R or U value is mainly for
glass in this case, and would not be a part of an air leakage rating .
If he calls different manufacturers they will say he should not feel
air comming in at 10-20mph winds, i did. *He has to find ratings and
do research to figure it out. I went through this and Pella replaced
seals on several new windows for free.- Hide quoted text -


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Even if I found what the air infiltration rate should be of the
window, I have no idea how to test it.


After doing a bit of investigation this weekend (since it was
55degrees out), I think I might have found the issue. *There is a slit
on the outside of the window at the bottom of the casing that is not
caulked. *I belive it is not caulked to allow water to seep out. *This
looks like it would allow air to enter the side cavities. *I don't
think I want to caulk the outside casing since I would want water to
drain, but I think it would be safe to caulk the inside of the
cavity. *I'll have to do more research tonight. *I'm going to take
leaf blower to different areas of the window and see where its getting
in.- Hide quoted text -


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Let the window co tell you whats wrong, let the builder fix it. If it
has a infiltration rating its a good enough window where you should
not feel air comming in with under maybe 40 mph wind gusts- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


So... I should get a Silverline rep out... not the company that
installed them.- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


You need an independant inspector, call Silverline and an atty. you
are being BSed Im in OakPark Ill . I bet your subdivision is
substandard..- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


A Silverline rep is coming out today. I'm almost positive that its
from the weep holes. The windows are Silverline 2900 single hung. I
found the model number on the window. They are definately not their
cheapest builder grade windows. "Our Premier New Construction Single
Hung Window".

http://www.silverlinewindow.com/prod...NC&type=single