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Art Art is offline
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Default Bladder water tank problem...

My tank was about 20 years old when I sold the house. Frankly, I don't know
whether it was a bladder tank or not but I never had to recharge it with air
so I assume it was a bladder tank.

Fix the fittings and leave the tank for now.


"Harry K" wrote in message
...
On Jan 4, 10:50 am, JBond wrote:
On Jan 3, 10:45 pm, "Art" wrote:





I would look there too but I used to clear mine with a screwdriver.


"Harry K" wrote in message


...
On Jan 3, 6:16 pm, JBond wrote:


I turned off the pump and then the water valves to house - done to
clean and replace a silt filter.
Absent mindedly, I opened the valves to the house, but neglected to
power the pump. Used up all water in the tank to the maximum before
discovering the error (hours later), where I powered the pump.


Here's the problem, since this time (and this was months ago), a
shower will bring me a trickle when the tank has emptied, sucking in
air to the plumping and about 30 seconds later the cut-in signals to
the pump to start up, where pressure is immedietly rendered, tank
refilled and life is good again.


I haven't yet tried to verify that the tank pressure (empty of water)
is set at 2psi below cut-in (38) of the 40-60 cut-in/cut-out settings.


Looking for the experienced members of this group, to give me their
experience on whether the fact that I completely dispelled the water
in the tank may have caused my problem, or if it might be more serious
in nature likely a bladder rupture. I don't have a cycle on / cycle
off problem obviuosly. Just the opposite, i have a late restart.


thanks,
James


I can see no way that running the tank fully empty did any harm.


I had the "delay" before teh pump would kick in bit. Traced it down
to an almost totally blocked riser pipe to the pressure switch. It
would take awhile before the change in pressure reached the switch.
Cleaned the pipe, problem cured.


Turn off the power, disconnect the wires to the switch (note where
they go!), unscrew switch, unscrew pipe and look at it. I had to take
a drill bit to ream out the crud in the pipe.


Harry K- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Great! After doing some more analysis, I watched the cycle move from
33 to 97 (I remember it used to be 40-60). the max the tank has is
100. phew
I've emptied the tank (to 40) lifted and shook the tank to see if I
hear water. (i also relieved some air from the air valve when it was
fully water charged@97, and no water.). Bladder seems fine.

My thought was that the switch wasn't performing it's function.
Sooooo, when I saw your posts, it confirms my suspicion. The
galvanized fitting is extremely corroded. I'm adding air to 38 by
hand pump while it's empty (the guage lowered to 32 with pump off).
the Tee and fittings are all corroded, I was planning on changing them
for brass, however i wanted to wait until warm weather is back with
us.

Question: saw some other posts mentionning that bladder type tanks
designed to last 10, mine is now 17, can we confirm that these tanks
won't go further?

Thanks for your quick responses!- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Fix those fittings now. Your pump will destroy itself if you keep
running it tht way and fooling around with the tank ain't a gonna help
anything.

Harry K