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Pete C.

wrote:

On Mon, 24 Dec 2007 13:56:57 GMT, "Pete C."
wrote:

wrote:

On Sun, 23 Dec 2007 20:49:30 GMT, "Pete C." wrote:

wrote:

If you were really some sort of
technically proficient person, you would know that it's very easy to just look
up the specifications for almost all consumer electronics.

It's easy to look up the specifications and misinterpret them.

Yes, but that's you, not me!

No, it's you.

Simply
looking up the nameplate Amp or Watt rating doesn't tell the whole story
as it is only the peak draw and more often than not is quite different
than the normal operating draw. That CRT TV may well draw the nameplate
1.2 Amps for a few milliseconds on startup, but operating is more like
.4 Amps. Perform the real world measurements on your old and new TV and
then see if you feel the difference is huge.

I still don't know what you meant when you said you were "in the video world for
15 years". Are you a sales associate at Best Buy? Or did you just mean that you
don't live in the real world?

15+ years of video production engineering, another 10+ of audio
production engineering, and a lot of other technical experience in other
areas.

Me? My electronics education, which encompasses formal education, aprenticeship,
and self study, started when televisions didn't have any transistors, and the
wiring was all point to point. When Sony came out with Beta, people were coming
from NYC to my store in South Norwalk Connecticut, because I had in house
service. Could find that in NYC. I did the same thing when Cellular phones came
on the scene. I was set up to service cellphones a year before the system went
online in Connecticut. The phone company techs were bringing various phones to
ME for evaluation to see how well they would work with their as yet, untested
system.

So you're either retired now and haven't worked on anything in a decade
or two, or you're working at the local grocery store after your TV and
VCR business went under because everything is disposable these days (not
that that's a good thing).

Wrong on all counts, Petey, but thanks for playing!

Either way, if you have that experience then you should have enough
sense to realize that the nameplate Amp or Watt rating is not a
meaningful measure of the actual operating draw.

Where did I say to look at the nameplate, Petey?

You referenced looking up specifications "it's very easy to just look
up the specifications for almost all consumer electronics" and the only
specifications that you will be able to look up from the manufacturer
would be the nameplate rating.

Wrong, Petey. The only specification YOU would be able to look up is
the nameplate ratings.

I think I can figure out which TV uses more energy, thank you. :')

Only if you make actual measurements.

So, you have made actual measurements on the two TV's I mentioned? I don't
remember even giving you the model numbers, Petey. That makes you a SUPERGENIUS!
Congratulations.

As I noted, I measured a 17" CRT monitor, nameplate 1.2A, actual running
.4A.

A 17" CRT monitor is not a 27" CRT television, and it is also not a
40" LCD Television. Why don't you measure the current draw on your
refrigerator and throw that into your nonsensical mix as well?

It is a clear example of how far the real operating draw is from the
nameplate rating.

Oh, and, Kill-A-Watt? That's sold mostly for amateur
do-it-yourselfers.

I used a Fluke 87.