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William Sommerwerck William Sommerwerck is offline
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Default Speaker Crossover Questions - Again

Should I replace the resistors? The speakers function, and measuring
the resistors with a multi-meter find them within tolerance. Any other
tests I can perform? The resistors and caps leads are twisted and
soldered together, so I have to "remove" them anyway.


If they're in good condition, there's no reason to replace them.


I was thinking about use a connector bar, screw or solder type,
versus twisting and soldering the component wires together.
Any comments on that idea?


For reliability, all connections should be soldered, regardless of how the
components are "anchored"..


From lurking in this forum, I know that most of you that reply to
posts do not believe in high-end "snake oil" caps. Humor me, or go
enjoy a glass of egg-nog. Reading other forums, people recommend
using a quality cap in parallel with a smaller value "snake oil" cap.
The result is supposedly better sound, without spending big $$. This
doesn't quite make sense to me, since a larger value cap will roll
off at a lower frequency and thus a larger portion of the signal (for a
mid or high speaker) will be flowing through it. Is this a correct
assessment or is my "basic" understanding of caps or electronics
insufficient to understand why this recommendation has merit.


It is my opinion that switching from electrolytic to Mylar caps will effect
a noticeable improvement in the sound. Mylar caps are not horribly
expensive, so it won't cost much to experiment. You can modify one speaker
and compare it with the unmodified one to see if you agree. I will not
discuss this issue further.

You should replace the caps directly, rather than paralleling them. (Your
point is correct, at least in theory.) A 10uF electrolytic should be
replaced by a 10uF Mylar, and so on.

Mylar caps should also last longer than electrolytics, as they won't dry
out.