On Dec 10, 10:04 am, Norminn wrote:
clipped

Thanks for all the tips and ideas. I've finally got the large blister
about 98% fixed. I painted the trimmed blistered edges with an oil
based primer. This seems to have dried out and stiffened the
"whiskers" at the edge enough so I could sand the them off with a 220
wood sandpaper. The edges smoothed out enough where I could then
prime the blister again and then put on a finish latex coat. Since
the patched crown moulding area is 7 1/2 feet high and not over a
dooway or in a high traffic area, the patch is almost unnoticeable
unless you stand there and look for a while.

Manjo

Just for future reference, and from finding out the hard way, paint
(both alkyd and water-based) will feel dry quite some time before it is
cured (hard). Takes alkyd, I believe, sometimes two weeks to cure. So
sanding before alkyd is cured and is still somewhat "gummy" makes it
difficult to get a smoothe surface. Best to wait. Sanding latex
smoothely has always been a problem for me. It tends to "roll". For
that reason, I have always used alkyd for doors and woodwork, as well as
for kitchens and baths. Easier to clean, harder to stain, but the
whites tend to yellow. It is also important to mix paint completely
just prior to starting each job, even if it was "shaken" at the store.
By not mixing, you can get differences in the color and/or gloss.

Happy to hear you got your problem fixed.

Norminn,

Thanks for the tips. I would have waited a while longer, but the
moulding is in the dining room and we needed to get the job patched so
we can set-up for Christmas (which is an extravaganza of epic
proportions :).

I'll keep an eye on the patch and if it changes for the worse, I'll
redo it giving the job more time to set after priming.

Happy hoildays,

manjo