That looks interesting. I wish I could find some reviews on it. I
thought I would not that you need to buy the right model for the size
pipe you have. For main drain lines it looks like this one is it.
http://www.amazon.com/Water-Products...6392286&sr=1-3
On Nov 28, 10:47 pm, "DanG" wrote:
You might try a drain king while you have the toilet off. These
are patented rubber bulbs that you hook to your garden hose. You
can run them from the drain valve on the hot water tank for an
even stronger effect. Your distances are minimal so it should be
relatively easy. They are inexpensive and should be readily
available. Here is a link:
http://www.kk.org/cooltools/archives/000190.php
an alternate brand:
http://www.usahardware.com/inet/shop/item/81600/icn/20-353581/g_t_wat...
--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
wrote in message
...
On Nov 27, 4:37 pm, Speedy Jim
wrote:
wrote:
On Nov 26, 5:17 pm, Speedy Jim
wrote:
wrote:
I have the tiolet off of the floor and the flange exposed
but I have a
lead bend in it (from the flange to the main line about 1
foot or so)
and I was told that an industrial snake will destroy that
lead bend.
Do I just use a smaller snake but then it may not fully
clear the
line?
I could go through the trap right before the line goes out
to the
septic but then I will have to do it backwards and I am told
that I
need the line to be near the machine so it doesn't go
flailing around
the room (ideal would be a drain opening in the floor right
next to
the machine.)
Yep. Excellent chance you will be replacing the lead
bend.
Anyway, I doubt that the machine will be effective going that
distance with all those bends.
Are you *sure* that there is an actual clog in the house
sewer
leading to the tank? Like tree roots? If tree roots, you'll
need a powerful cutter with minimum length of stout cable.
Is it possible that the drain field is saturated, rather
than a clog?
Can you get the tank lid off to provide clues?
Could there simply be a paper clog right in the trap?
Give this project some thought before jumping in.
Jim
All those bends??? It's "one" bend. Down from the floor to
90 degree
to a Y fitting where it attaches to the cast iron line.
Am I sure??? I am not sure of anything. It's a little hard
to be
sure without actually checking for things. However, I doubt
there are
tree roots in the line as there aren't any trees around the
house. If
the drain field was saturated I would expect to see this
problem
during every shower, dishwasher load, etc. It's only from
the washing
machine -and- I can run the washing machine over and over and
over
again one run after the other with the same problem. If I
had a
saturated field I would think that eventually I would reach a
point
where it would not take anything more and I would get a
complete
backup. Secondly, I can run the washing machine in the
morning where
nobody has used any significant water for over 12 hours and
it will
still do the same thing. My theory is that between the drain
cycles
on two or more washer runs this main drain pipe has enough
time to
discharge. Hence, "the thought" that I have given this.
If there were a paper clog right at the main trap then the
other two
drain lines coming from the house would be having similar
problems and
they are not - plus I took the two caps off of the septic
trap and it
was clean.
What "clues" are you going to find by looking under the
septic tank
cap? Besides the "scum" at the top of surface I doubt you
will find
any clues.
Give it some thought??? I can think about it until I am blue
in the
face. It's time to start "jumping in" and trying different
things.
Yes, it could be A, B, C or D - now it's time to start
eliminating
some of them. So far I have snaked the vent stack to the
roof - clean
as a whistle, ran a small auger snake back from the septic
trap
towards the area where the problem is - nothing significant
came out -
but then again it was not an industrial snake.
One point that someone just made was to check the actual
"vent" not
the "vent stack" that many people think is always the
problem. Their
theory is that a large rush of water (from a washing machine)
is not
venting at the front of the water rush due to a partial clog
of the
main vent. This sounds plausible but I am skeptical - it's a
four
inch copper vent line with a grate at the end. What could
have gotten
in this past the grate (and want to stay in there.) Bugs
perhaps. I
am going to check it but I don't have much hope.
Apologies for any perceived criticism. You have indeed
done the homework :-)
Removing the tank lid would allow you to see the amount
of flow *into* the tank. Would also vent pressure ahead of the
flow. If there is only a trickle of flow, then you know
a clog exists between house and tank.
Would it be practical to excavate the line leading into the
tank? Cut in a TEE for access?
Plan "B": Rent a sewer machine which mounts on a
tripod stand to get the auger up at the trap level.
Jim
I wish I could rent an industrial snake on a tripod - no such
thing at
my local equipment rental. Even if I could of course it would
be
going backwards (or uphill towards the beginning of the drain
line)
but it might be enough to dislodge something and maybe I could
keep
the faucet on while snaking.
I picked up (borrowed) a small electric snake tonight. I've
seen this
one in action and it does not spin very fast. I am going to
snake the
vent line to the outside if I can get to it through the septic's
trap
(I think I can do it) then I am going to snake from the last
elbow
straight out to the septic. Then I can try (again) to go back
from
the trap to the end of the drain line but I doubt it will do
anything
(with this snake and the various endpoints on it.)
I don't have much hope and I am afraid this is going to remain a
mystery either forever or until the problem worsens or until
someone
qualified can take over. Sewer line cleaners are shady - just
like
chimney cleaners, carpet cleaners etc. They work on commission
and
solving your problem is not their top priority only trying to
scam you
into some horse$hit "product."
I really don't need to cut a tee into the line outside to the
septic.
I have a clean out right on the 90 degree cast iron bend as it
heads
outside. It's only about 8' or so from the basement to the
tank.
Probably not allowed by code anymore to be that close.
Have you ever lifted a septic cover to "look at the flow into
the
tank?" Not much to see past the 12" layer of scum is there? It
would
be one thing if you could take the "entire" cover off of a tank
which
is possible on some steel tanks but not on concrete ones. It's
just
the opening on top. The only way to see inside is to have it
pumped
out....or jump in!