On Nov 29, 4:22�pm, "HeyBub" wrote:
FACE wrote:
I am in the South. �Winters are not really extreme. �Probably some 4
or so times it will get below 10, maybe a dozen or so nights it will
get down to �17-20. �Example, as of now, Nov 29, we have �not gotten
below freezing.

I wish to winterize a house where the water and gas is off.

P-traps in sinks and toilets, etc. �Is there any difference in RV
antifreeze and regular auto anti-freeze for that purpose. �Pipes are
mostly PVC.

Water heater is drained by the bottom cock. �At that I imagine there
is a little water left in the bottom.

Water lines are drained to the extent that they will by opening lowest
outside faucets.

What else? �How much anti-freeze per trap? �Do I need to final flush
the toilets and drain the water closets or will auto antifreeze be
safe in there and in the bowls? �(I need it to look as good as
possible because I am trying to sell the house)

The problem with pipes is this: when water freezes, it expands. If there's
no room for the ice to expand, the ice often breaks its container (pipes).
If there is room for expansion (p-trap, toilet), there will be no harm.
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I turned a dishwasher upside down once, at a friends home that had a
fire and no heat. we knew everything would freeze a amazing amount of
water came out of the fill lines and drain system.

so your trying to sell this house? it will sell easier if all
utilities are on, keep home at 50 above freezing. I too sold a vaant
home, thats what I was told.

certinally the first buyer will demand a home inspection, thats when
you will find out and have to fix whatever damage the freezing did.

it costs a bit more but i would keep the home running at a low level.

if you cant sell it rent it out, to help cover expenses