On Nov 29, 8:55 am, JB wrote:
On Nov 29, 6:07 am, Paul Franklin
wrote:



On Thu, 29 Nov 2007 01:49:25 -0800 (PST), Mikepier

wrote:
I started installing my kitchen cabinets. . The wall cabinets are up.
Now I'm stating on the base cabinets. It's one row of cabinets 11 feet
long wall to wall. My question is how do you shim up the first cabinet
in the corner? I can't get a shim under there while the cabinet is in
place, so I have to remove the cabinet, put a shim in the corner, and
place the cabinet again to test. Is there a technique thats easier?
I thought if I place a shim from the top on the adjacent wall, that
would keep the cabinet raised, then I would drill through the top
cabinet rail. Any advice appreciated.

Find the highest spot on the floor along the whole line of cabinets.
Measure up from there the proper cabinet height (usually 34.5") and
mark the wall. Keep in mind that the highest spot may not be right
along the wall but out under the front of the cabinet or anywhere in
between. Then extend a level line along the whole row and around the
corner(s). Slide that first cabinet in place. The lines will give
you an idea of how much it needs to be shimmed and where. It will
still take some trial and error to get that first one right, but not
as much.

If I read you right, you're proposing using a temporary shim up top
just to get the cabinet plumb and level enough to fasten to the wall.
You really want the shims under the cabinet where needed to support
the weight; just depending on fasteners through the top rail to hold
it plumb and level is not enough.

Often when cabinets go wall to wall you need a filler strip to get the
dimensions to work out. Even if you don't, sizing the row of cabinets
2-3 inches smaller than the total opening and then using a filler
makes fitting a lot easier, since it gives you a little wiggle room.
By splitting the filler and putting half at each end, it gives you a
small gap to work the rear shim into place. Also provides more
clearance for doors to open and drawers to slide without hitting the
side walls.

Of course the easiest way is to spring for cabinets that have built-in
levelers that are adjustable through the cabinet bottom, but I guess
that advice is moot at this point.

HTH,

Paul F.

I am watching Mike's progress with interest since it appears he is
about 2 months ahead of a very similiar job at my house. My kitchen
has 2 walls for cabs...the main one also about 11'-12' long.

What is the easiest way to find the high point in a space that long
since (as you correctly point out) it may not be along the back wall
but up front, in the middle, etc. Do you draw a level reference line
on the back wall, use a string level in the front and middle and just
measure everywhere to find any "humps" in the floor?

Use a straight 10' 2x4 with a four foot level taped to the top, or you
can use a laser or water level and a tape measure to measure down from
the level line.

The leveling legs are the easiest thing to use. If you haven't
ordered/built your cabinets yet, I'd make them without bases and toe
kicks and use the leveling legs.