I agree with your comments, however I'd have to spin not only the
impact, but an air compressor, hose, portable tank, etc. by the finance
department... I can see it now "you just want that so you can use it on
your silly old car" (um, yeah? so? G)
nate
Steve Barker wrote:
get you a 1/2" pneumatic impact. yes, like the ones to take wheels off and
on. Turn the air down low (about 50 psi) and use a 6 point socket. Start
a rat a tatting on it, slowly turning up the air inthe process. It'll come
out. I woudn't worry about the tank bung itself. It's probably one of the
thickest parts of the tank.
steve
"Nate Nagel" wrote in message
...
How much torque can one apply to a fitting, say an anode screwed into a
hot water tank, before getting into the area where one needs to be
concerned about the integrity of the tank itself?
I suspect that it's new water heater time, or close to it, but I was
pleasantly surprised when I removed the anode from another tank of similar
age (in the same house) and found it well corroded but not so much that it
would indicate that it had been without protection for any length of time.
So I'd prefer to simply inspect this one, replace if indicated, and keep
on using it if I can, being a cheap bas^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^Hfrugal person.
I had a 18" long, 1/2" drive breaker bar on it and it was flexing to the
point where I was concerned about snapping the bar. (I may or may not
have been using an unapproved extension on said bar...) I have a beefier
3/4" drive bar but I'm wondering if a person of average or slightly more
than average strength can actually break the tank by doing this.
I've been pretty lucky so far, I've R&R'd two drain spigots, one T&P
valve, and one anode without busting anything, as well as R&Ring the
spigot and anode on a one year old tank in the garage. This is hopefully
the last part I need to break loose to provide me with peace of mind,
although you just know that now that I've said that the other T&P valve
will fail 
nate
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