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On 07 Nov 2007 02:08:10 GMT, RLM wrote:

On Tue, 06 Nov 2007 10:24:34 -0500, Randy wrote:

I am starting to look for a forklift for around the shop. There's one
on ebay that has brakes that do not work, are they hard or very
expensive to fix? I know nothing about forklifts.

Item number: 140174039210

It's about an hour away from me, or should I keep looking?

I'm looking for cheap.

I can fix almost anything, unless you need some exotic special tool. (
although I have made some of them.)

I rent out part of the building to a guy for storage, and am looking to
put some pallet rack over there, so there's a second reason for a
forklift.

Thank You,
Randy

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From the picture it looks like a C30B that was last manufactured in the
early 70's or a C300 that was the less expensive model when they came
out with the C500's later. It has a flat head Continental Red seal
engine that can be expensive to rebuild today.

The brake shoes are located inside the differential housing. To get to
the brakes, tilt the upright back as far as it will go, then stack wood
blocks under the bottom of the upright *outer rails* and tilt the upright
forward to lift the front wheels off the ground. If there is a
considerable amount of wear in the trunion rings. and brass bearing that
wrap around the differential housing, then it may have too much wear to
lift it this way. This is very expensive to repair if the parts are still
available. If it lifts off the ground then you can check out the brake
problem.

This model has an inching cylinder. that is located on the
transmission control housing on top of the transmission under floor
plate.

When you press the brake pedal the fluid from the master cylinder pushes
a 5/8" u-cup forward about an inch or so inside an inching cylinder. This
in turn moves a lever that goes through the transmission housing and
dumps the pressure to the transmission packs to put the transmission in a
neutral position.

This allows you to push the brake pedal partially down in order to rev
the engine and raise the load at a higher speed while the truck coasts.

This is a common wear problem and until the cup and piston move to the
end of the stroke the fluid doesn't go to the wheel cylinders. Brake
fluid leaks and can be seen running down the front of the differential
housing. There is a kit available to rebuild that includes the cup,
actuator rod, spring, clevis pin, and cotter pin. This is the cheap
repair if that is the only problem.

Under the differential below the position where the brake drums are
located there is a hole on each side. If automatic transmission fluid or
brake fluid are dripping from either hole It gets very labor and parts
expensive from here.

To get to the wheel cylinders and the brake shoes, remove the lug nuts
and remove the wheels. Behind the wheels will be five or six bolts with
3/4" heads that are 1/2" bolts about 1-1/4" long that will need to be
removed. If the upright is stable on the blocks then it can be raised
up using the engine to run the hydraulics.

Behind the upright on the front of the differential housing you will see
3/4" nuts on the end of the approximately 8" or 9" studs that run through
the differential housing that will need to be removed. Some nuts will be
under the differential so be sure you remove all the nuts and lock
washers. Make note where these studs go through the differential housing
as the same housing was used on solid tire units such as this and
pneumatic tired units. There are more holes in the differential housing
than studs an if you don't reassemble it properly the axle end will be
too low to remount the wheel because you have put it together for
pneumatic tire use.

Carefully take the brake line loose and leave it drain the fluid from the
master cylinder so you can refill it with fresh fluid later. When all
this is loose then you can shake the axle end and it should feel as if it
can be pulled out of the differential housing.

The axle end is going to be surprising heavy because behind the axle end
where the wheel was bolted on is a sun gear the diameter of the housing,
inside that there is a bull or drive gear to rotate the sun gear, this
bigger gear and extended shaft that will go almost to the center of the
differential and is the axle shaft that goes into the spider gears inside
the differential itself.

It has a spline that carries the brake drum on it, inside the
differential that holds the brake drum on with a snap ring. The shoes and
wheel cylinders are behind this drum.

If you can pump the brakes up so the unit will stop and the transmission
disengages but the unit looses the brakes (pedal goes to the floor) after
sitting for a while (say a 1/2 hour) then the adjusters are bad.

The brake adjusters are bolted through the backing plate for the brake
shoes and are not serviceable and must be replaced. I don't recall ever
seeing a pair of brake shoes worn out on these units because the brakes
have a four to one advantage stopping the unit. The adjusters either go
bad or the wheel cylinders wear out and start to leak that ruins the
shoes. Forget brake cleaner.

The axle end pulls straight out of the differential but is heavy enough
that I would put a choker (nylon or 5/16" wire rope) around the housing
at the same place that 1/2" x 1-1/4" bolts were removed. Hook a
come-along at the top cross bar of the outer rail of the upright and pull
until weight was neutral and axle end could be pulled straight out of
differential housing.

That gets one side exposed to repair.

When this truck was new and under warranty , not rusty, estimated time
for and experienced mechanic with a background on Clark Equipment could
do a brake job in 8 hrs.for a non-smoker and not talkative, with all the
tools within arms reach for both sides in the field. ;-)

This is all the factory would pay if well documented and all replaced
hardware parts could be returned to the factory if requested and had to
be requested within a six month period. After that you could discard the
worn parts and the AFA (Authorized Factory Adjustment) was paid if the
factory felt it was warranted.

Inching cylinder was a separate repair.

The larger scrap iron was easier to work on many times. At least you
weren't on your hands knees all day, many times where it was the most out
of the way place that was available, say out in the gravel or on hot
blacktop outside.

After all it is in the way inside and not making any money.

Most places will charge time and material for these repairs today.

Political Correctness is a doctrine fostered by a delusional,
illogical liberal minority, and rabidly promoted by an
unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the
proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.