On Fri, 02 Nov 2007 21:53:36 -0500, Ned Simmons wrote:
:On Fri, 02 Nov 2007 22:45:34 GMT, Dan_Musicant
:wrote:
:
:On Fri, 02 Nov 2007 14:05:25 -0500, Ned Simmons wrote:
:
::
::
http://www.mcmaster.com/
::4784A2
::Buffing Bar Steel Cut & Color, Yellow, 8" L X 3" W X 2" H Bar
::In stock at $10.33 Each
:
:Sounds like (and looks like... I had a look) a real good deal. I just
:bought a 3.5 oz stick of Dico Stainless Steel polishing compound, though
:($4.10 + tax). I don't know how far this stuff goes. I may be needing
:more compound sometime soon.
:
:It goes a long way. I wasn't exaggerating much when I said there'd be
:something left of a 2-1/2# bar for your heirs.
Yeah, I read that twice and figured you were being serious. So... how
long will a 3.5 oz stick last? Maybe I'll just order the McMaster 2.5#er
now while it's up there...
:
:If you're working on relatively flat surfaces, the stainless compound
:will work best on a hard buff. See the spiral sewn buffs near the top
f McMaster p.2610.
Well, I don't know what I'll be working on eventually but right now I'm
working on two SS pots, small bulbous (see OP). IOW, not flat surfaces.
The buff I bought yesterday was branded Ryobi at Home Depot, is 6 inch,
and the label says it's for coarse buffing. It's sewn with close spirals
all the way up the sides. I figured a tough close-sewn buff would act
not so differently than the one with only one or two concentric rings of
stitching and would last a lot longer. The one buff I used (a few days
ago) splayed considerably as I was trying to apply the pressure needed
to remove the tough coating on the small stove coffee pot I was trying
to clean.
I'm even thinking of making homemade plywood flanges to put on the sides
of this 6" buff to give it serious stiffness so I can apply pressure
without deforming the buff. I could make ~5" flanges easily enough.
:
:Be careful about snagging the pieces you're polishing with the buff or
:it'll launch them at high velocity. Always work so that if the work
:*does* get snagged it gets thrown down and away from you. Even with
:experienced operators, the drywall behind my big 7-1/2 HP buffer was
:full of holes.
Yep on the watchit for snagging. Well, for one thing my buffer is made
from a dryer motor, 5.8 amps and 1725 RPM. I'm less apt to have that
problem. I'll keep this in mind, though. A few years ago I thought the
motor had become irreparable and I shopped grinders and they were around
3600 RPM. However, I was able to fix the darn thing.
I have to spin
the wheel a bit with my hand before turning it on for it to spin up
reliably, but it keeps chugging along.
Email: dmusicant at pacbell dot net