On Thu, 25 Oct 2007 20:15:12 -0600, Rick Blaine
wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:

I think a point that a couple of you may have missed is that it's not
the drywall that the OP is concerned with, it's the baseboard and
carpet. In other words, to remove the drywall would mean removing the
baseboard which in turn might impact the carpet installation.


Yep, that's also a pain. But if you take it slowly and use a thin flat blade,
you should be able to remove the baseboards with damaging them. Be sure to score
the wall paint/baseboard seam with a razor first. The carpet shouldn't be a
problem as the tack strips are usually far enough away from the wall that you
have space to work.

That said, I agree that proper inspection and repair of the studs is
not possible without removing the drywall, regardless of how much
downstream work this causes.

'fraid so.

Unless he's worried about the expense or matching the baseboard that
remains, it's not a hard job to replace baseboard. Usually a crow bar
is used to remove it. And the tack strip is usually about 1.5 to 2
inches away from the baseboard so it shouldn't need to be replaced and
the carpet can just be pulled off and put back on when all is
finished.

I agree with the rest that pulling the sheetrock is the best method
for fixing the studs. Like another poster, if the wall is textured,
matching it to the existing might be the biggest problem in my opinion
(well at least for me it would be).