"Joe" wrote in message
. net...
Is there are formula or rough correlation for a starting (roughing down)
speed as it relates to the diameter of the piece being turned? What do
you use? I have a Jet 1442 (reeves) and if it means i can't safely turn a
piece on its lowest speed, I'll have to make a design change.

I know there are many factors to consider here, including balance of the
piece being turned, I'm just looking to see if my lathe's low end is in
the neighborhood.


Hmm ... how many angels on the head of a pin depends on the agility of the
angels, the gage of the pin and the vigorousness of the dance. Turning's
no different. On a less than rigid lathe/stand combination, your 500 might
scare you to death on a 10" piece. If you take big bites rather than
shavings you can tear the thing out of the centers, and that means any
speed's going to be too much for you to get out of the way. Out-of-balance
makes everything worse.

Mount those ends carefully, snug them up well and make sure the tail is
locked. I'd say you're best with a ring center, but Darrell's washer might
keep a 60 degree honest. After the first few downhills, stop and recheck.
While the piece is still less than round it can fool you and fling suddenly.
Later you'll have warning, because things won't be smooth like they were.

Keep the rest up close, and it would be good to keep it a tad above center
so you can deflect a dismount below and have little worry of catching your
gouge in the air above the cut. After that, it's whittle from the end back
to center until round, then downhill for pattern. As Dave Hout always
says, don't start in the middle.

If it feels uncomfortably fast, it is. Nothing even Nish says should make
you think you have to cut any faster than what you're comfortable with.
remember, to get the wood coming by twice as fast gives four times the
energy to any mistake. I imagine you're like most of us, moving the gouge
about at a modest speed, not trying to scoop as fast as a high speed would
permit, so enjoy it.