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Brian Lawson Brian Lawson is offline
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Default What would you consider the minimum effective boundaries for a bridgeport and a 12x36 lathe?

On Tue, 16 Oct 2007 09:03:50 -0400, Wes wrote:

Brian Lawson wrote:

Tell us a bit more about this garage. Concrete floor? How big is it?
Rafter height? Is it totally detached, or is some part of it already
protected by the house? What does it have for garage door(s), and for
walk-in access? Windows?


24' x 32' detached garage with two overhead doors. Bridgeport sitting is
sitting with rear near centerline of garage near right overhead door. The
lathe is on the other side atm so I can get at everything to recondition it.

My one entry door is generally blocked with something in the way.

My thoughts are to use the front right side of garage near overhead.

WEs

Hey again Wes,

Well, if you actually live where snow flies in and stays for a while
or longer, then if I were you I would "unblock" that small door.
Opening and closing an overhead door is a huge time and money waster
if it isn't necessary. My garage is attached such that the house
forms two walls. The ceiling is dry-walled and has really deep
insulation batts in place laid in above it. All the walls, even above
the overhead doors, are insulated and dry-walled. One of my two
walk-in doors is in one of those house walls, and the other is
protected in a sort of alcove (outside). The two 4-section 10 W x 7H
overhead doors have a 1" styrofoam inside covering from the factory,
and I'm lucky that the house sits on my lot such that the prevailing
wind hits the house walls. And once again, I'd like to mention what a
great job those two ceiling fans do all year long at spreading the
heat, and keeping air moving so there is no moisture and therefore no
rust.

I'd suggest you completely cover and insulate both the garage doors,
and if you don't want to vent, then use electric heat. But it won't
be cheap. Not like it was 20 or 30 years ago. But it is easy to do,
and pretty safe.

I can't say I recall your mention about

lathe is on the other side atm so I can get at everything to recondition it.


is all about, but I had a single garage (10 X 21??) before that had
three walls formed by the house walls, and an 8' high drywalled
ceiling. Only the garage door was "outside". On a nice day one fall,
I opened the 1-piece overhead door fully, and ran a 2 X 4 from wall to
wall at the ceiling and another one at the floor plumb with the first
one, just 4" clear of the opened overhead door. I put in jacks
(studs??) at the ends, and all this stuff was fastened with 3" (small)
angle brackets and 2'1/2 inch wood screws to hold it all in place
(you'll see why in a second). I added studs 16"OC between these top
and bottom plates, applied luan plywood on one side and added
insulation batts and then put luan ply on the other side too to
sandwich the batts. The ply was 4X8 sheets, and I just put two sheets
per side, starting at each wall. Then I cut the top and bottom plates
at the in edges of the "walls". So now I've got these two "walls"
up, each 4'W X 8H, and in-between them I framed in a door between the
4X8 sheets. I think it was a 30" door as I recall, and I filled
abouve it and insulated. Voila!! A wall that I could remove (as I
had to when I sold the house) by just removing the visible wood screws
and kicking them over.

With just a 9" lathe and a small horizontal mill and a drill press,
benches and tools, it was crowded but cozy.

Maybe something similar for you?