"David Todtman" wrote in message
news:aYSQi.66141$th2.25985@pd7urf3no...
Leon,
Why do you recommend "regular kerf"? (I presume this is rather than
"thin" kerf.) I have been told that one should not use a thin kerf blade
on a 3hp cabinet saw but don't know if this is bs or what.
Best,
David


I used thin kerf for years because they cut so "fast". I was not happy with
the cuts. They were never quite true enough for me and even with a
stiffener which limited the depth of cut I was not happy. In 1989 I talked
to my local tool dealer and blade sharpener. They still sharpen blades but
do not sell tools. I asked what he recommended for a good combination
blade. He recommended a Systematic combo "Regular Kerf".
He told me, and I agree with that statement to this day that a "good quality
and sharp" regular kerf blade will cut just as smoothly and effortlessly as
any thin kerf blade. Plus you get flat bevels, miters, and compound bevel
cuts. At the time I was using a 1 hp Craftsman TS and never again put a
thin kerf blade on my saw. About 8 years ago I up graded to a 3 hp cabinet
saw and immediately upgraded to the Forrest WWII regular kerf 40 tooth
blade. A few years ago I bought another Forrest WWII to have on hand while
Forrest resharpens the other. I also strongly recommend Forrest for
resharpening. They can retune the blade if necessary when they resharpen
it.
If you are buying a cheap blade, a thin kerf may be the better choice but if
you have your sat properly set up and want dead flat cuts a "Quality"
regular kerf blade is the way to go.
Thin kerf makes it easier for a low powered saw cut through hard woods. A
sharp good quality regular kerf blade can do this also.

As for why you should not use a thin kerf blade on a 3hp saw, probably
because the blade will not deliver the precision that a better quality saw
is capable of delivering.