"Rob" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Oct 5, 6:48 pm, "Mark D. Zacharias"
wrote:
"Rob" wrote in message

oups.com...



On Oct 3, 3:43 am, "Mark D. Zacharias"
wrote:
"Rob" wrote in message

oups.com...

On Oct 2, 6:56 am, "Arfa Daily" wrote:
"Rob" wrote in message

oups.com...

Kyocera DA-310CX. It plays fine straight through, but when I try
to
jump from track to track either forward or backward, it can't
lock
onto the next track about 1/4 of the time. The track number is
displayed, but the countdown display stays blank (a series of
dashes
across it) and no sound. It either does not play at all or every
now
and then it will begin to play after a long delay with the track
number displayed, but the countdown does not start up. When it
does
this, it begins to play from a spot inside the track, rather than
from
the beginning. Now, if I jump forward, then back again, it does
lock
in. It appears to play both CD-R and factory CDs in this way.

Is this most likely a cleaning/lubrication issue? Can I rule out
any
problems with the laser or other unfixable problem? When you put
a
disc in and play it straight through, it appears to work without
any
problems, it goes from track to track smoothly (albeit it with a
4
second delay in between tracks, as designed).

The tray mechanism clearly needs cleaning, as you have to help it
open
and closed or it does not move.

I have read the very good tutorial on CD player repair from this
site
and will certainly look at the laser for cleanliness, clean and
re-
lube.

When playing straight through, apparently ok, how 'tap-sensitive'
is
it ?
A
clean laser in good order should stand a knock to the cabinet that
is
enough
to shake the lens, when there is no disc in - if you see what I
mean,
That
is, not violent enough to guarantee a jump, but hard enough to make
a
noise.
If the laser is clean, but jumps easily when the cabinet is tapped,
it
is
likely that the laser is low emission or dirty internally, either
of
which
problem means replacing it. Again, if it is a laser problem, a
burnt
disc
rather than a pressed one, will usually behave worse, due to its
lower
reflectivity.

Another possibility, if the player has setup pots, which most these
days
don't, is that the E-F balance is a little off. This can cause just
about
exactly the symptoms that you are describing. However, it is often
the
case
that the E-F balance is poor because of internal dust in the laser,
and
without a pot to offset the opamp that the diodes drive into,
you're
stuck.
If the laser is one of the Sony KSS series - particularly if it is
a
KSS213B
or a KSS240A, then the problem is probably laser related. All the
KSS
series
are readily available from multiple sources, and not expensive.
They
are
not
hard to replace in most players, and if you buy a 'genuine'
replacement
rather than a second source 'ringer', they are usually just 'drop
in'
without any setting up issues.

Arfa

Thanks Arfa. I went in and posted my results and a picture he

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...=1315606#post1...

Optical assy is the KSS-123A and they appear to go for $25. Results
of the tap test are inconclusive. It does jerk it a bit, but maybe
I'm just hitting it too hard? So, what do you think, adjust the E-F
now? In which direction?

I've seen Kyocera's of this type have slightly sagging suspension
springs,
so that the disc scrapes slightly as it plays. You might check to make
sure
the disc rotates absolutely freely when clamped in PLAY position and
that
there is a bit of play in the vertical plane, meaning that the
clamper
or
disc isn't very close to scraping.

Also, sometimes we see other things - even a bit of hair wrapped
around
the
spindle motor shaft can cause a problem, and while we're on the
subject,
the
tray load belt (underneath the mech) is a real troublemaker on these.
Perhaps it's just not clamping fully.

Mark Z.

The the edge of the disc appears to scrape some, but only at the
beginning of the spin up. I can't figure out why its doing this. The
spring does not appear to sag. The clamp is on pretty tight. How
would I get the drive out to service the belt? The tray face appears
permanently secured so you can't pull inward and the drive appears too
large to go thru the front mounting opening.

It's been years since I've done one of these - I don't remember the
specific
tricks to get into one. I do remember you can stretch the springs a bit
to
fix the scraping.

Mark Z.

I took another look and I think the entire faceplate needs to come out
(held by 6 screws), this sound right?


Sorry, not sure. Newer ones they almost always snap off, but older ones
often retained the tray lip with screws. Sometimes it does help to remove
the screws which hold down the deck, then remove the faceplate then lift
them both, then tilt the tray out. Just about then you generally see how it
was supposed to come out in the first place.

:-)


Mark Z.