Tuner Watson wrote:

In article ,
says...



This probably doesn't help much, but can't you check the old balance pot
with a meter and see how it works? That should solve any mysteries.


Thanks for the reply, Mike. But it's not so much how the pot works that is the
problem, the problem is how the circuit works in conjunction with the pot. The
pot is fairly simple, (though I will check it with a meter to be certain, that
was good advice) either the back pot is wired in reverse to the front pot or
the circuit is plotted in reverse on the pcb (so that turning the knob causes
one pot to wipe one direction, while the other pot wipes the opposite direction
, so that as you turn it to the left the left channel gets louder and the right
channel gets quieter, and vice-versa). What I don't understand is, where the
hell are the 'clean' or 'isolated' right and left channels? Like I said, if I
bridge the pot contacts I either get the channel I bridge coming over both left
and right headphones/speakers, or a louder left or right channel but with some
of it in the corresponding channel at a much lower level.

If anyone really wants to waste some time helping me, take a look at the
service manual to give yourself some idea of what I'm dealing with:

http://www.hifiengine.com/download_c...-r11_service.p
df

As you can see, if you look at the service manual, the balance knob, loudness
knob, treble, bass, and tone defeat are all on the same little PCB. If I can't
get the balance bridging sorted out, I'll probably try to bypass this board
entirely, so any tips on doing that would be appreciated as well.


Put long URLs inside like this:
http://www.hifiengine.com/download_centre/index.php?mitsubishi_da-r11_service.pdf
so they don't break.


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida